LT Z250 mods
Sep 6, 2006 | 06:52 PM
#11
Pro Rider
Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 478
Likes: 3
LT Z250 mods
I dunno hp wise how much but it made a huge difference. Like night and day. Its about $200 for cam and springs. Very very easy to put in. Its really stupid how easiy it is and everyone is scared to do it. I have had no problem with reliability or how easy it cranks compared to stock. It actually cranks easier than stock. With my mods its about as fast as a 400 ex stock. We are about what and what until 60 mph when I hit the rev limiter. I also did each mod 1 at a time to see the difference. Cam was most difference. Piston made the 2nd most and then the head porting.
Sep 6, 2006 | 09:28 PM
#12
Range Rover
Joined: Apr 2006
Posts: 116
Likes: 0
LT Z250 mods
Originally posted by: LTZGUY
I dunno hp wise how much but it made a huge difference. Like night and day. Its about $200 for cam and springs. Very very easy to put in. Its really stupid how easiy it is and everyone is scared to do it. I have had no problem with reliability or how easy it cranks compared to stock. It actually cranks easier than stock. With my mods its about as fast as a 400 ex stock. We are about what and what until 60 mph when I hit the rev limiter. I also did each mod 1 at a time to see the difference. Cam was most difference. Piston made the 2nd most and then the head porting.
I dunno hp wise how much but it made a huge difference. Like night and day. Its about $200 for cam and springs. Very very easy to put in. Its really stupid how easiy it is and everyone is scared to do it. I have had no problem with reliability or how easy it cranks compared to stock. It actually cranks easier than stock. With my mods its about as fast as a 400 ex stock. We are about what and what until 60 mph when I hit the rev limiter. I also did each mod 1 at a time to see the difference. Cam was most difference. Piston made the 2nd most and then the head porting.
Sep 7, 2006 | 12:07 AM
#13
Pro Rider
Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 478
Likes: 3
LT Z250 mods
Take your front plastics off. Remove gas tank. Remove the cam chain tensioner. (it has 2 allen head screws and one 12mm in the middle, its close to the crankcase on the left side of the head.) Remove the top cover on the head. Put a long tie strap on the can so you can grab it if it falls in crank case. You will see the cam. Remove the bolts from the cam gear. Be careful not to left the dowl pin in the cam/gear fall in the case. Remove gear and hang chain off the front of the engine. Pull the cam out, there is a half-moon shaped clip the rides in a grove on the cam, becareful not to lose it. Drop in new cam. Now, take the round allen head cover off the left side of the engine. Get a nut that will screw on the threads you will see inside. use a deep socket to turn the engine over with that nut. Take off the other plug on the top of the engine case on the righ side toward the front. You will see the flywheel through it. Turn the crank (while guiding the chain) until the line is in the middle of the peep hole. Now line up the line on the cam gear parallel to the head surface. put the chain on while keeping everthing in line. Use black rtv on the rocker cover. Take out the 2 big plugs at the top of engine to adjust the valves to .005.... any questions? Good idea to get a manual.
