never got a pm....

 

lol if u wana send it my way i'd appreciate it too, then i can do it myself without my dad having to bother with it. (he's very good with engines, but very busy as well.)

 

DON'T run it with the airbox lid off without re-jetting, you could burn your motor up if it is running too lean. Also, if you rejet, you won't be able to run with the lid on because it will be way too rich.

 

copied from another site-
I created this while cleaning out my carburetor, and it is not necessary to completely take the carb off of the quad if you don't want to.

After each explanation is a picture. Sorry if some of the pictures are blurry, the next time I have my carb apart I will take better pictures. Enjoy [img]i/expressions/face-icon-small-smile.gif[/img]

First off, clean your quad! You don't want any dirt or any type of anything besides gas getting into your carb. That will be bad news.



Next, remove your seat, gas tank side plastics, and gas tank cover plastic.



Next, make sure that the petcock valve is in the "On" position, so that only a minor amount of gas will leak out. Pull the gas tube from the carb, and let the gas leak onto a towel. Then, pull the other tube coming from the petcock to the carb. Then, remove the two bolts that are holding on the gas tank, and remove the gas tank.



Next, go up to the throttle body on the handlebars, and remove the cover. Then release the cable from the jig thats in there. Then just unhook the cable from the body. I suggest putting the throttle body cover back on so that nothing gets in there.



Then, unscrew the choke cable from the side of the carb (For those of you with a carb mounted pullout choke, you do NOT have to do this). Then, you may loosen the boot clamp screws on both the airbox and engine sides. Remove the carb.

Now it is easier to work with (Again, you do not have to completely remove the carb to rejet! I find it easier to work with this way though). You should have something like this:



Now, I recommend getting some type of pan to put the carb in, because in this next step, gas will pour all over the place.

Turn the carb upside-down. Remove the Idle mount screw. Remove the four screws holding the bowl on. Remove the bowl



Now, from here you can do many things. I will list 3 things, because I do not have pictures for the rest.

Changing Your Main Jet

*For the "Changing Your Main Jet", and the "Changing Your Starter Jet" sections, pictures will be posted before explanations...*



To change your main jet, it is very simple. Take a flathead screwdriver and remove the Main Jet. Replace it with a larger/smaller main jet (Stock size is 130 Mikuni Small round). That's it, you're done.

Changing Your Starter Jet

*Refer to above image*

To change your starter jet, do the same thing as you did with the main jet. unscrew it with a flathead screwdriver, and replace it with a larger/smaller starter jet (Stock size is 60).

As you can see, jetting is very simple, its just getting it spot on that takes time. Let's continue...

Adjusting The Needle Jet Clip Position

*Explanations posted before pictures*
**Note: If you have a stock needle, you will not be able to adjust your needle jet due to the fact that the stock needle only has 1 position!

First, you start off with this...



Second, remove the 2 screws holding the big black cap on (Carburetor diaphragm cover), so that you get something like this (Watch out! HUGE spring under the cap!):



Then, remove the slide (diaphragm) by slowly pulling the rubber boot upward. There is a video showing you what to do.

Slide removal



Next, take a pair of needlenose pliers, and reach down into the slide with them, grab a hold of the gray needle holder, and pull (WATCH OUT! There's a tiny little spring that will shoot across the room, and will never be found because it makes no noise). I have posted a video to show you.

Needle holder removal

Next, if you want it to be leaner, move the little clip up a position on the needle. If you want it to be richer, move the needle clip down a position. This may take a little patience, because sometimes the clip does not want to move.





When you are done with rejetting your quad, reassemble everything back together, it is fairly easy.

You're done. Now all you have to do is check your spark plug after riding it for a while. Black plug = rich... White/Gray plug = lean... Tan/Brown plug = Perfect (this is very hard to obtain though... Just make sure that your not lean, or too rich)

 

That is the one that I was looking for I guess you can't post a link from that site. This site filters it out. I could have swore that I PM'ed it but hey. Also I am going to post up some pictures tonight when I go home hopefully if I am not at work too long tonight. Sorry for the delay

 

Maybe my computer is messed up or somthing but i don't see any pics.

 

I copied it from another site, the pics dont work on this site.

 

what was the site you got it from??

 

It is at z 400 central.com no space in there between the z and the 4

 

One extra bit of advice. The first time you do it I would remove the carb, it makes it much easier to work with. Also, when you remove the float bowl screws be VERY careful, they are very easy to strip - just use lots of pressure, especially to break it loose the first time. I ended up having to use vice-grip pliers on a couple of them because I stripped the screw. I would have some replacements on hand in case you do strip some, in fact, I have some stainless allen head replacements on order. After re-jetting the 2nd time I had to replace two of the screws. I think they are a 4mm x 10mm. I figure after i put the allen head screws in it should make it easier to change without taking the carb off.