To JustRandy,


Continuing conversation.


Honing a cylinder generally will not make it bigger, depending on what kind of hone tool your using. Honing is basically resurfacing the cylinder walls by removing any imperfections caused from piston rings scuffs or after boring it out then finishing up the "polish" per se. It may remove some material but usually isn't enough to be a measureable amount or at least that was my experience with it when I was working in a machine shop.


Increasing the CC's is always good, but how much of a difference did you feel by going up to 67.5. I'm just curious on how much of difference in feel it is.


I knew they required a SF rating on the oil and the AMSOIL I bought before said it was formulated for older ATV's and didn't include any of the friction modifiers or other additives, but I emailed them just to make sure and told them about the SF requirement although I'll probably just go with accel your recommending sense AMSOIL is pretty pricey.


On the shifter, I'm planning on cutting off the end of the stock shifter and welding that piece to the extra reverse lever so it should stay pretty close to the stock feel and length minus the shift linkage part.

It does seem like a pretty good clean motor. I tried to post some pictures but the website wants a URL address and I don't have a photo bucket or anything like that. Even through it's nice and clean, I think I would feel better if I put a new piston and rings in there just to be safe.

The Yamaha 225 is the right height, just low domed.

If I went to 70mm for the 260 kit, I'd resleeve for sure. I consider 1.5mm to be the bitter edge, and I'm not quite sure how my 190 has lasted this long without getting excessive blowby. I'm sure there's a decent piston that would work, but it's a matter of finding it.

Has anyone ever tried affixing something to the top of a piston?

Honing may be ok. I honestly can't give an experienced-based opinion on that. I can only speculate that the bore started at x diameter, then the rings cut it open more, then honing, then more ring cutting. It would seem x-final would be bigger than x-initial. There will also probably be some cylinder distortions you will want to polish out with the stones.

The priority on all 230 engines is taking care of the rod bearings. I can't stress that enough. Once you get some wobble in those bearings, you'll never get it to stop smoking. And changing rods is a pain.

Feel-wise, you will notice more from the compression increase than the cc increase.

If we figure 0.1 hp per cc, then 7 cc would be 0.7 hp increase. That's not a lot. Even doubling that is not a big deal.

I don't know how to quantify the compression increase in terms of power, but I suspect it's exponential. It sure feels like it.

We have to remember that cc is just a static measure of a dynamic system. F1 cars are what, 2.5 L and making 1500hp? But that 2.5L is wrong. The air is being supercharged and could be something like 10L of air rammed into a 2.5L space. That is why I like the 250s cam because it has a longer intake duration and allows for a proper porting to let air continue to flow in even though the piston is not moving. There are so many variables that affect effective-cc that static-cc isn't all that meaningful.

I have my cylinder pressure so high that it stretches my head studs and leaks hot gases through that burn my head gasket. It only happens at the lower bound of mid-range throttle. When I get the revs up, the pressure isn't high enough. Same thing at lower rpms. It's only in the sweet spot that I can hear it whistling. So my engine has a max displacement at, say, 5000 rpm, then it gets smaller as rpms go up. Maybe they call that "volumetric efficiency".

If you're going to go for displacement, this is the engine to do it due to its long stroke. You can make a 66 x 67 engine a lot bigger with a few mm increase in bore when compared to a 76 x 54 engine.

Regarding oil, the service manual states "Suzuki recommends the use of SUZUKI PERFORMANCE 4 MOTOR OIL or an oil which is rated SE or SF under the API classification system. The viscosity rating is SAE 10W/40." Amsoil is probably a better oil, but I change my oil a lot because of clutch and gear debris. For me, it's not as much about viscosity breakdown. I need an oil that is cheap enough to replace often. If the clutch and tranny were separate, I wouldn't worry so much.

I think you will like the shifter for a while, but then, eventually, you'll say "that randy guy was right" ;) A properly functioning stock shifter is SO much easier to find neutral and it doesn't hurt my foot as much.

I ended up just getting a standard size piston. Slowly getting it back together now. Waiting on a gasket kit. Got the swing arm and rear end all back together though. It's amazing how much of a difference it is with those new bearings in there lol. I think the swing arm will make it but we will see if not then welll "I 'll sail that boat when it comes" got the new carb in yesterday.

What brand do you recommend for clutches? It doesn't need them but I figured I'll probably throw in a new set eventually.

I got kevlar for mine.

He did too https://atvconnection.com/forums/suz...ml#post3050041

They're hard to find though.

Other than that, there probably isn't much difference in them.

Vesrah is made in japan which is probably better than taiwan or china. Other than that, I really don't know.

Did you get the high comp standard size piston?

I got the Vesrah gasket kit. It seems like good quality. Do you remember what brand the clutches were? I think I found some on bikebandit but can't remember the name and they sell them individually which I thought was kind of strange. I did get the high compression piston it's got a dome shape on top with valve reliefs.

Barnett, but I got them off ebay a couple years ago. I went to Barnett's site and got an error when I tried to find 230s clutches. Maybe if you contact them they can sell you plates individually. I think the 230 takes 6 and the 250 takes 7. Probably why they sell them individually.

I need a clutch for my 300 king, 250ex, and lakota. It's amazing how crappy clutches are. You may be ok if you don't beat on it, but my riding style is hard on them. I tend to peg the throttle and fan the clutch as I'm shifting.

Vesrah and oem suzuki could be the best brands when it comes to quality, but their clutches are organic.

That piston should bump up the power a good bit. A new muffler would help too. I remember I used to take the drain bolts out of the bottom of my stock muffler and that alone seemed to help a lot. I think I even drilled a few more holes as well. The spark arrestor inside is a big restriction.

Good to know about how the clutches I think that was the brand I saw on bike bandit I know they were kevlar though.

I got the motor all put together last night and got everything torqued down to spec. Hopefully get the rest of it together and her up tonight.

I plan on getting a new muffler, the only issue though is the only ones I have been finding are DG brand. I thought I read somewhere that brand isn't so good, but I could be wrong, I'm sure anything would be better then stock.

The DGs tend to be loud and sound like crap. I made my own out of a driveshaft and some tube.

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It's really quiet until the volume of exhaust becomes too much for the insulation to damp. Then it has a low tone, not a ratty tone like those thin mufflers.