LT-F250FY
#1
07-04-2007, 07:31 PM
Join Date: Jun 2007
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LT-F250FY
I finally got it running. Set needle out by 7/8th of a turn. And with persistance cranking and battery charging. However, I have to keep the idle up, but with this setting it bangs into gear, which I dont like. If it set to low it will die out.
What is causing the surging of rmp at idle?
If I rev it up in neutral it sounds like it's popping or backfiring just a bit.
But when I get it on the road and <u>Run It Like I Stole It</u> it get up and goes. But 3rd gear will have a little hesitation about at the second/third of the gear range. Once I past that range it get good again?
After 1256 miles what maintenance should be performed (like valve adj,timing chain tension, timing check can anyone tell me.
__________________________________________________ _______________
I got into the carb one more time. Found a torn oring on this fuel/air mixture needle loctated at the engine side of the carb. (Assemlbed in this order, needle,washer, spring, oring.) I found it unusal that there would be an oring at this location? However I'm going to replace it. I believe it may have gotten torn when I set the screw all the way in, thinking if there was any trash in jet it would push it thru. I believe the end of the spring sliced thru the oring.
Reviewed other posts, Im thinking this could be called the slow jet and needle. The adjustments posted stated that the start setting is 1-1/4 turns out from full in.(If I dont cut the oring again!) with no more than 3 turns out and no less than a 1/2 out from full closed. I assume turning needle in is leaner and turning needle out is richer. This is a very hard to reach screw once the carb is mounted.
Questions:1) What is the correct setting
2) Can you tell when you got it tuned in by the sound:ie highest rpm before running lean.
3)What is the best approach to getting at the screw in order to set it.(Thinking I can twist the carb a little ,(so I can get to the screw) with no air cleaner hooked up.
4) Do you think it can be the valves are out of adj.
ATV*LT-F250FY-w/original Mukuni carb 2000 model with 1256 miles. Only changed spark plugs,air/oil filters and oil, and what is posted below. Oring on float needle and just recently a new float seat and needle.
Here is my previous post:
My son was riding in the back yard, he told me the machine backfired and then he could not keep it running unless he held the throttel open.
I checked the carb once before about two years ago and replaced the oring around the needel and seat,( at that time we were getting to much gas, gas was leaking around the oring and over filling the bowl, causing it to flood and back fire. That cured it for some time. So I figured it was the same problem.
This time I purchased a needle and seat assembly for !@#$%^& $46.00. Replaced the needle and seat assembly. I was so sure this was going to fix it. It did not. Sometimes it will try to fire but only with the throttle wide open and then it only fires for about 2 seconds. I'm getting good spark. What the &@!! could it be. Some one told me I could have dropped a valve, but when I pull the plug and place my finger on the spark plug hole I can feel the vacum and then feel the compression. But if I dropped a valve I would think that the engine would not even try to run as mentioned above.
-------------------------
Rudy
Please review addtional problems and results:
http://forums.atvconnection.co...12/threadid/522572.cfm
What is causing the surging of rmp at idle?
If I rev it up in neutral it sounds like it's popping or backfiring just a bit.
But when I get it on the road and <u>Run It Like I Stole It</u> it get up and goes. But 3rd gear will have a little hesitation about at the second/third of the gear range. Once I past that range it get good again?
After 1256 miles what maintenance should be performed (like valve adj,timing chain tension, timing check can anyone tell me.
__________________________________________________ _______________
I got into the carb one more time. Found a torn oring on this fuel/air mixture needle loctated at the engine side of the carb. (Assemlbed in this order, needle,washer, spring, oring.) I found it unusal that there would be an oring at this location? However I'm going to replace it. I believe it may have gotten torn when I set the screw all the way in, thinking if there was any trash in jet it would push it thru. I believe the end of the spring sliced thru the oring.
Reviewed other posts, Im thinking this could be called the slow jet and needle. The adjustments posted stated that the start setting is 1-1/4 turns out from full in.(If I dont cut the oring again!) with no more than 3 turns out and no less than a 1/2 out from full closed. I assume turning needle in is leaner and turning needle out is richer. This is a very hard to reach screw once the carb is mounted.
Questions:1) What is the correct setting
2) Can you tell when you got it tuned in by the sound:ie highest rpm before running lean.
3)What is the best approach to getting at the screw in order to set it.(Thinking I can twist the carb a little ,(so I can get to the screw) with no air cleaner hooked up.
4) Do you think it can be the valves are out of adj.
ATV*LT-F250FY-w/original Mukuni carb 2000 model with 1256 miles. Only changed spark plugs,air/oil filters and oil, and what is posted below. Oring on float needle and just recently a new float seat and needle.
Here is my previous post:
My son was riding in the back yard, he told me the machine backfired and then he could not keep it running unless he held the throttel open.
I checked the carb once before about two years ago and replaced the oring around the needel and seat,( at that time we were getting to much gas, gas was leaking around the oring and over filling the bowl, causing it to flood and back fire. That cured it for some time. So I figured it was the same problem.
This time I purchased a needle and seat assembly for !@#$%^& $46.00. Replaced the needle and seat assembly. I was so sure this was going to fix it. It did not. Sometimes it will try to fire but only with the throttle wide open and then it only fires for about 2 seconds. I'm getting good spark. What the &@!! could it be. Some one told me I could have dropped a valve, but when I pull the plug and place my finger on the spark plug hole I can feel the vacum and then feel the compression. But if I dropped a valve I would think that the engine would not even try to run as mentioned above.
-------------------------
Rudy
Please review addtional problems and results:
http://forums.atvconnection.co...12/threadid/522572.cfm
#2
07-05-2007, 01:42 AM
LT-F250FY
get a flatslide carb offline like ebay,i got a 30mm to put on my lt 230 s and what a huge change in performance and a much better idle!!!! with my stock carb was similar i ran a bottle of seafoam thru with 2 gallon gas ran like crap till gas was gone put new in and was a lot better!!! being that u changed needle and seat ur float setting might be off. u could pull carb and fill by gas line then pull float bowl off and see if there is enough gas should be roughly half full
