sounds like card needs to be rebuilt. new batt and maybe stater weak? had a quadsport 230 very reliable quad. once they are set up and you maintain them , 4 strokes last forever.

 

just out of curiosity is there a way to check for a weak stator? or do you just have to replace it and see what happens

 

Use an ohm meter to check the coils. I dont know what the specs are though... For a magneto it should be around 100-300 ohms, but you probably have an alternator.

 

On this machine, do not pump or even move the throttle lever while starting. Move the choke lever down, (on) & hit the starter button. As soon as it starts, you may want to then feather the throttle a little, but at the same time move the choke back to about 1/4 on until it warms up.

The reason for this is that the choke system has it's own needle valve metering into the carburetor. Playing with the throttle negates the choke. & you may have to screw with the starter cranking for some time until you get enough gas into the carb.

 

Ok so i havent really had time to mess with it much lately. I did take the carb off and cleaned it. After doing that made no difference. ran great cold and warmed up and hard to start / idle. the other day i ran it for about 20 mins and it warmed up and then died and wouldnt start. After cranking a while i almost killed the battery so i hooked some jumpers to it and it woudlnt start. I got to looking and i ended up popping the rubber boot at the back of the carb off to see if the choke was working inside the carb....for the hell of it i cranked it with it off and it started up and ran like a raped ape. I think the problem the whole time is that it was starving for air.

Is there any way i could remove the stock airbox setup and just run a k&n cone filter?

Also i notice either the rear end is a little sloppy or the clutch slips a little....sometimes when its under a heavy load like going fast around a corner or up a hill i can hear and feel almost like a grinding noise....it feels like its coming from the rear end but i'm not sure...usually when it happens it feels like the clutch is slipping like its reving but not really going that fast.... just looking for some input on that....i will probably do a little more research over the weekend to find out where exactly its coming from

 

Take the breather filter off & wash it out in gasoline or something to remove all the possible dust/grit. Dry it out & then pour some motor oil (heavier the better)in it & work the oil in. Do not overdo this, you just want enough oil to catch any dust, but yet let the air flow thru.

As for slipping, if your machine has not been serviced with any degree of regularity or the person riding it does not unbderstand what is happening, the clutch will in all probability be slipping. I suggest you get a Clymer repair manual. On page 72 it describes how to adjust the clutch.

Jack the machine up, remove the right rear tire. Down on the lower engine behind the foot brake cable end will be a approx 2" round aluminum cap with a hex head. Remove this cap & inside you will see a screw with a nut around it. Grab it & push/pull. There is supposed to be only 1/8 of a screw turn movement. Loosen the Metric nut & with the wrench still there tighten the screw in untill it stops. Now back it out slighty, the book says 1/8 of a turn, however I have found not quite that for works for me.

This works best if you have a special tool with a socket to reach inside the hole, as it is about impossible to do it with an ordinary wrench. I made mine by welding a handle on the side of the right size socket, (I believe a 12mm). Then I can go inside the socket hole & adjust the screw & tighten it while holding the screw.

 

This may seem like a dumb thing to ask but did you do the following:

1) Pour out all of the old nasty gas that was in there and replace it with fresh gas didn't you? It sounds like it may have gas in there that is years old. Gas separates after a few months and can cause hard starts and stalls.

2) Change the oil immediately.