1987 QUADSPORT LT230 SMOKES NEED ADVICE
#11
SO UR SAYING U HAD TO BORE IT OUT 4 TIMES?? I JUST WANT TO DO THE BEST THING THERE IS AND THAT WILL SAVE ME THE MOST MONEY AND LAST THE LONGEST WITHOUT MESSING WITH IT FOR A WHILE
#12
This guy that works with a buddy of mine wanted us to rebuild his wolverine. So, they drop it off over here and we get it running and it smokes like a tar wagon, but has plenty of power. We tear it down and boy was the rod sloppy! Worst I've ever seen. There is no hope for this thing. I bet a month after a bore job it will be back smoking again. Sucks too because nobody is going to pay to have the cases split and the rod replaced... I sure as hell ain't got the time to tear ANOTHER engine apart (I haven't even gotten to my own yet). I figure somebody ran it low on oil before,,, either that or they was trying to blow it up. I don't know, but that makes 3 engine I have in the shop with sloppy rods (and I bet a few more that I ain't gotten to yet).
My 230 I had bored out march of 07. .060 over with new wiseco. When was it that I took it all apart again??? Fall??? A few months ago anyway. That's how long it lasted me with a sloppy rod. And I didn't ride everyday either. I figure at the rate I was riding it, I got about a summer's worth of riding on it before it started burning oil again. It was fun while it lasted.
My 230 I had bored out march of 07. .060 over with new wiseco. When was it that I took it all apart again??? Fall??? A few months ago anyway. That's how long it lasted me with a sloppy rod. And I didn't ride everyday either. I figure at the rate I was riding it, I got about a summer's worth of riding on it before it started burning oil again. It was fun while it lasted.
#13
<div class="FTQUOTE"><begin quote>Originally posted by: cms10balla
so ur saying if i bore it out and get that rebuild kit which is [the piston and the rings + gaskets] ur saying ill have to do it again in 2 years... is there anything that will last me longer in the long run? so i wont be putting 600$ in it in 4 years?</end quote></div>
Have the machinist bore it out as tight as possible. The tighter the piston fits in the bore, the long it will last. Either that or replace the rod. It only costs $130 to replace the rod. The trouble is you have to take the crank out and send it off. Once you have a new rod, it should last you a long time.
so ur saying if i bore it out and get that rebuild kit which is [the piston and the rings + gaskets] ur saying ill have to do it again in 2 years... is there anything that will last me longer in the long run? so i wont be putting 600$ in it in 4 years?</end quote></div>
Have the machinist bore it out as tight as possible. The tighter the piston fits in the bore, the long it will last. Either that or replace the rod. It only costs $130 to replace the rod. The trouble is you have to take the crank out and send it off. Once you have a new rod, it should last you a long time.
#14
<div class="FTQUOTE"><begin quote>Originally posted by: cms10balla
SO UR SAYING U HAD TO BORE IT OUT 4 TIMES?? I JUST WANT TO DO THE BEST THING THERE IS AND THAT WILL SAVE ME THE MOST MONEY AND LAST THE LONGEST WITHOUT MESSING WITH IT FOR A WHILE</end quote></div>
Then join the club http://forums.atvconnection.co...7657/STARTPAGE/149.cfm and have a new rod installed like the rest of us. [img]i/expressions/face-icon-small-happy.gif[/img]
SO UR SAYING U HAD TO BORE IT OUT 4 TIMES?? I JUST WANT TO DO THE BEST THING THERE IS AND THAT WILL SAVE ME THE MOST MONEY AND LAST THE LONGEST WITHOUT MESSING WITH IT FOR A WHILE</end quote></div>
Then join the club http://forums.atvconnection.co...7657/STARTPAGE/149.cfm and have a new rod installed like the rest of us. [img]i/expressions/face-icon-small-happy.gif[/img]
#15
I went out n took some pics to try to show what I'm talking about. In the first pic I'm rocking about .050 side-to-side and I'm not even measuring at the very end like I'm supposed to. This is not counting the sliding motion.

The next pic I'm out of round at least .004.

This is the engine I got one summer out of.
This was so bad that when I attempted to measure the deck height of the piston, I got different readings at the left and right side of the piston! And the bore had gotten so distorted that the difference in deck height between the front and back of the piston was huge. The piston was basically just flopping all over the place in the cylinder.

The next pic I'm out of round at least .004.

This is the engine I got one summer out of.
This was so bad that when I attempted to measure the deck height of the piston, I got different readings at the left and right side of the piston! And the bore had gotten so distorted that the difference in deck height between the front and back of the piston was huge. The piston was basically just flopping all over the place in the cylinder.
#17
ive been looking to try to find a good atv mechanic in ohio.. i live in middlefield ohio 44062..and ive looked on yp and all through the internet to try to find the closest mechanic so i dont have to drive far from home and i cant find any... does anyone know of a good mechanic that will tear the top end apart and rebuild that is close to middlefield ohio 44062? if so get back to me asap
#18
I bet there are some great mechanics in Cleveland, Akron, or Youngstown. I used to live in Toledo and mechanics and machine shops were a dime-a-dozen. Many of them going out of business because of the domestic auto troubles. Lots of machinists sitting around with nothing to do.
#19
<div class="FTQUOTE"><begin quote>Originally posted by: PoolGod230
And I didn't even measure! I just grabbed the rod, wiggled it and knew it weren't good!</end quote></div>
Me too. The only reason I measured was for this thread. The way I see it, if it wiggles at all I'm going to replace it... Unless its a farm vehicle or something like that. But anything sporty is going to get beat on so it needs to be as tight as possible. Balanced too. If I was in Toledo I could pick from a hand full of shops that could balance my crank for me. Here in GA I can't find a soul... online either. Maybe I should call around Atlanta.
And I didn't even measure! I just grabbed the rod, wiggled it and knew it weren't good!</end quote></div>
Me too. The only reason I measured was for this thread. The way I see it, if it wiggles at all I'm going to replace it... Unless its a farm vehicle or something like that. But anything sporty is going to get beat on so it needs to be as tight as possible. Balanced too. If I was in Toledo I could pick from a hand full of shops that could balance my crank for me. Here in GA I can't find a soul... online either. Maybe I should call around Atlanta.
#20
toldeo is a good several hours away from me.. lil bit out of distance and witht eh gas prices... imm looking for like a warren or youngstown 50 miles away not no 400[img]i/expressions/face-icon-small-tongue.gif[/img]


