I am getting ready to do a complete engine rebuild. I'm trying to think of what all I need to do so. Here is what I have so far. Let me know what you think.

Bottom End
· Crank rebuild by Vince's $160
· Oil Pump $70
· Oil Filter $4

Top End
· Wiseco piston kit $74
· Valve Set $30
· K&N air filter $40

Miscellaneous
· Complete Gasket Kit $30

I already rebuilt the carb. My other question is what about buying a used motor from say eBay instead? Total comes to $408. Could I get a good used motor for that? What about a 250r motor? Just trying to think of all the options before jumping in.

 

You could go with another motor but who is to say it will last? I would shop around try motorsports or Rockymountainatv they both give good deals and you may be able to get it done cheaper then you think.

 

there is a guy on ebay that sells rebuilt motors for like $600-$700. but you have to send your motor in as a core charge. but your price list is prety good though.

 

What about the valve springs or rockers? Do you think I should replace those too?

 

You can look around craigslist for a motor. I found good bottom ends in michigans craigslist for $100 to $150. I didn't buy them because I got a complete motor off ebay the other day, but most of them that I have seen have no play, the crank bearings are good, and they shifted through all 5. Then you don't need to waste the money on a flywheel puller. Most of the bottom ends you will find on cl will not come with a magneto cover as they broke or they sold it seperately. There is a guy on ebay also who will do a rebuild of the top end for $150. You get a new piston, rings, cylinder bored and honed, and I think a new gasket kit for the top end.

 

your valve spprings and rockers should be fine after a thorough cleaning. and i would only get the crank rebuilt if there is side to side play in the connecting rod bearing. but look at it this way if you do get your crank rebuilt by Vince, the sky is the limit. with that rod that he supplies you can do anything you want to the engine. stage 2 cam over bore or big bore it. the rod will hold up to almost anything.

the thing about buying a bottom end off CL is you dont know if the oil pump is shot or not. i bought one in Bellview Michigan about 4 months ago and it was junk. the tranny was screwed most of the gears had little to no teeth on them. sure it shifted fine because there was nothing stopping it.

 

There is some side-to-side play. How can I check if it is within specs? I have the Clymer book(p.90-92) and it says check the connecting rod-to-crankshaft side clearance with a flat feeler guage. Compare to dimensions given in Table1. I don't know which one it is in that table. For crankshaft it has Runout, Connecting rod, big end side clearance.

 

Haha Trailrider230s your killing me. I want to keep a tight budget and there you go getting me thinking about really doing it up. I checked on the big bore kit, it was like $350. I didn't find any stage 2 cams for it though.