I wish it was that easy. This is an '85 that was built 5/84 according to the VIN. The carb is nothing like is in my Clymers manual nor on the web for rebuild kits. I don't see any number on the casting that might give me a clue as to what it is. Clymers gives me float settings for a different carb. I may just have to get a random new needle and try it in there and hope it doesn't leak.

 

pull the the line off the fuel pump coming from the intake (at pump), no fuel should be in there other wise its sucking extra fuel and flooding engine, dont ask me how i know

 

Looks like the old VM Mikuni carb used in a lot of Polaris models. Same float arm,floats,etc.I'm sure the needle and seat,gasket would be the same. This is from an old 98 Trail Boss. Same style carb used from 85 models and up on Polaris models. https://www.partzilla.com/catalog/po...tor-trail-boss

 

That's it! How did you do it?

But $44 for a needle and seat? Are they kidding? Is it really used mainly on a Polaris?

Maybe I should just find a standard 26 mm Mikuni carb with a manual choke port.

The Clymers manual shows a VM26SS but all the pics show a head that is not the same as mine. I have a dual exhaust port head. I wonder what size carb this really is on my ATV.

 

Your old carb is similar but has brass floats. Showed a 22.5 pilot jet,100 main BUT the jets are different than the one you have now. If the carb fits,you can probaly use it but you may have to experiment on jets. This place can help if you're not close to a dealer.https://www.jetsrus.com/carburetor/c...VM_series.html You carb is nla and so are may parts for it. ANY Polaris 250 rebuild kit would probably work on this carb including the needle and seat.https://www.ebay.com/itm/SHINDY-CARB...!US!-1&vxp=mtr

 

Wow again. How do you do it? Is it a coincidence that this is used on Polaris and you are a Polaris guru?

I just ordered the kit from Ebay and will have it mid next week. Awesome. I'll see if there is a jet issue with it. I've never monkeyed with jets before but I'll take a look at the link you provided.

Do you think this NLA carb is Suzuki factory? Or is it someone's rigging job to make due? It sure looks factory.

This clear tube on the outside... It sure takes a circuitous route. And it looked like it had a hole burned on one end so I cut it down and reconnected it. I wonder if the bend was too sharp for a new hose to go from point to point without kinking. The hose that has been on here for probably decades had a nice bend set in it already so it goes find from nipple to nipple without and hint of kinking.

 

Hose on the side is just a vent tube. You can route a new one up out of the way. This is your carb that is nla. Similar in design to the Mikuni that some one used in place of.

 

This vent tube looks like it goes elsewhere. Mine routes back to itself. I know when I dumped the fuel out the fuel inlet before I disassembled, fuel filled that tube.

Hey, I see you are also in N. TX. We must be neighbors. I'm in GP.

 

About 40 miles NE of you.. If an atmospheric vent line is blocked or routed to where it can't draw air,then you can have problems with fuel getting into the lines. The vent tubes on these old carbs originally went to a tee and branched to another vent(if equipped) or to the float bowl drain/overflow line then attached to a one way check valve. Stupid idea on a lot of them. Just run vent tubes separate,up out of the way and a separate line on the float bowl past the engine bash plate to keep fuel off the engine.

 

I put the new parts onto the carb and am figuring out this vent tube thing. I figure I might be able to get a T at the hardware store but think it probably won't be fuel resistant. I'm thinking looking for generic T, check valve, and filter for the end. And then strap it to the frame up high somewhere. Am I on the right track? Local source for such parts?

The nipple on the float bowl has a rubber plug over it. Not sure what function that nipple serves. There is no valve screw to drain the bowl out that nipple.