NEED HELP WITH ZILLA
#11
You have to know somebody down at the local dealership, right? Get them to run a leakdown check on it. They shouldn't charge you nothing for that, if they won't then don't ever use them again. The seals can be replaced without removing the engine and they aren't that expensive anyway. I think one is $7.00 and the other usually $13.00 but if the seals are bad, the bearings must be going too, and vice-versa. The flywheel is easy to get off but REMEMBER the other side is reverse threaded so lefty-loosie won't do. The manual calls for several special tools but if you have a good socket set you can do it all without any special tools. I 'd do the leakdown thing first since all you have to do with that is pull the plug. I know what you mean about the Suzuki tricks that we all have to become familiar with and the old Quadzilla is full of them. Good luck. Oh yeah, freeze those seals overnight. It helps to make them a little smaller and a little harder before you put them back in. Use some locktite on 'em, too.
#12
THE SEALS BEING BAD DOES NOT MEAN THAT THE BEARINGS ARE BAD!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
If the bearings were toast then the seals should also be replaced. However, THERE IS NO REVERSE CORRELATION!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Take the time to closely read every sentence I have written and believe every word! I don't think I can be any clearer but I will be glad to expand on the issue if need be.
If the bearings were toast then the seals should also be replaced. However, THERE IS NO REVERSE CORRELATION!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Take the time to closely read every sentence I have written and believe every word! I don't think I can be any clearer but I will be glad to expand on the issue if need be.
#14
1. do a leak down test. find the problem.
2. if it is the bearing seals, fix the problem.
3. if you have the spare cash and the spare time, replace the bearings as well. cant hurt!
4. if all else fails speak to an expert from a shop.
5. if pain persists see you doctor [img]i/expressions/face-icon-small-tongue.gif[/img]
2. if it is the bearing seals, fix the problem.
3. if you have the spare cash and the spare time, replace the bearings as well. cant hurt!
4. if all else fails speak to an expert from a shop.
5. if pain persists see you doctor [img]i/expressions/face-icon-small-tongue.gif[/img]
#16
Slinger, I would love to hear what your qualifications are on this subject because your reasoning doesn't add-up. I, on the other hand, have a degree in Mechanical Engineering. I am guessing that you do not so I will keep this explanation as basic as possible.
Bearings wear out mainly due to the constantly varying load placed on them over time. For all practical purposes, the seals do not "feel" this load but rather wear out due to the eventual loss of elasticity they exhibit after a certain period of usage (they dry out). These are the principal causes assuming normal conditions. If the parts were manufactured improperly or damaged during installation, for example, that is a different set of circumstances for failure.
Some of you people seem to be making the assumption that since the seals and bearings are adjacent to one another, they must have the same life span. Do you see how ridiculous that sounds? They perform totally different jobs so why assume they wear out at equal rates? By your reasoning, maybe the crank should be rebuilt every time you replace the main bearings or seals! Whenever the bottom end of an engine is dismantled, all the seals should be replaced to avoid leaks (I assume that most people know this). I'm betting that you don't replace all the bearings behind THOSE seals (shifter seal, counter balancer seal, clutch arm seal, etc.) do you? ...I thought not.
So far you guys have merely said, "if the seals are bad, the bearings must be going bad too" but no reason has been given. If anyone has some educated reasoning behind that statement, I am ready to consider it. If, however, your explanation consists of: guesses; some sort of reasoning you formulated yourself; or if it came to you in a dream, then save it.
On the other hand maybe you really have something! Maybe you have stumbled across some law of nature that will rival Newton's! I might be in the company of greatness here in this forum!
Back to reality...I want to reiterate that, the seals DO need to be replaced when the bearings are junk. Splitting the cases and replacing fairly new mains when a seal prematurely fails is nonsensical.
Bearings wear out mainly due to the constantly varying load placed on them over time. For all practical purposes, the seals do not "feel" this load but rather wear out due to the eventual loss of elasticity they exhibit after a certain period of usage (they dry out). These are the principal causes assuming normal conditions. If the parts were manufactured improperly or damaged during installation, for example, that is a different set of circumstances for failure.
Some of you people seem to be making the assumption that since the seals and bearings are adjacent to one another, they must have the same life span. Do you see how ridiculous that sounds? They perform totally different jobs so why assume they wear out at equal rates? By your reasoning, maybe the crank should be rebuilt every time you replace the main bearings or seals! Whenever the bottom end of an engine is dismantled, all the seals should be replaced to avoid leaks (I assume that most people know this). I'm betting that you don't replace all the bearings behind THOSE seals (shifter seal, counter balancer seal, clutch arm seal, etc.) do you? ...I thought not.
So far you guys have merely said, "if the seals are bad, the bearings must be going bad too" but no reason has been given. If anyone has some educated reasoning behind that statement, I am ready to consider it. If, however, your explanation consists of: guesses; some sort of reasoning you formulated yourself; or if it came to you in a dream, then save it.
On the other hand maybe you really have something! Maybe you have stumbled across some law of nature that will rival Newton's! I might be in the company of greatness here in this forum!
Back to reality...I want to reiterate that, the seals DO need to be replaced when the bearings are junk. Splitting the cases and replacing fairly new mains when a seal prematurely fails is nonsensical.
#17
hey slinger,
well she's back on all fours now. Im still waiting on parts from suzuki. the shop has ordered the gears but apparently there on back order... Im refitting my nerf bars at the moment. doin abit of cutting and bending to get them to fit! hehe the guy who owned the bike before me mounted them wrong. i definately dont think these bars are for the zilla, but ill get em to fit hehe [img]i/expressions/face-icon-small-tongue.gif[/img] Ill be getting them rechromed, and the foot pegs chromed. But im still waiting on the engine. Ive got a mate in the US who is sorting out shipping prices and puchase prices for new maier plastics. but im in no real rush cause the engine is taking so long.
I need to pull apart the swing arm again tho cause its really loose. The bolt that goes thro the linkage is really loose in the centre, so i gotta check that out. But its still looking a million times better than when i bought it. Its got big paddles on it now but it will get a new set of either RAZRs or holsehots or dominators before the season starts again [img]i/expressions/face-icon-small-smile.gif[/img]
well she's back on all fours now. Im still waiting on parts from suzuki. the shop has ordered the gears but apparently there on back order... Im refitting my nerf bars at the moment. doin abit of cutting and bending to get them to fit! hehe the guy who owned the bike before me mounted them wrong. i definately dont think these bars are for the zilla, but ill get em to fit hehe [img]i/expressions/face-icon-small-tongue.gif[/img] Ill be getting them rechromed, and the foot pegs chromed. But im still waiting on the engine. Ive got a mate in the US who is sorting out shipping prices and puchase prices for new maier plastics. but im in no real rush cause the engine is taking so long.
I need to pull apart the swing arm again tho cause its really loose. The bolt that goes thro the linkage is really loose in the centre, so i gotta check that out. But its still looking a million times better than when i bought it. Its got big paddles on it now but it will get a new set of either RAZRs or holsehots or dominators before the season starts again [img]i/expressions/face-icon-small-smile.gif[/img]
#18
Well then my friend you would guess WRONG. Mechanical engineering as a matter of fact. Another thing, your all-knowing attitude and your all-caps outbursts are annoying. You act as if you possess all the knowledge when in fact for all your many posts, you haven't backed that claim up one bit. All a bunch of generalizations, nothing more. You are in the company of greatness unless you find yourself all alone. I won't waste any more time in regards to you and in the future if you see any of my posts assume that they aren't meant for you. On that assumption you would be correct. Now get out your graphing calculator and work on that.
#19
Must have somethin' to do w/ the "I.Q.'s being higher in the Suzuki forum"......but, I kinda agree w/btodd for the simple reason that whenever I replace a leaky seal in the Ford I don't go out and install new bearings, or put new ring and pinion gears in just because the rearend seal was leaking, or replace wheel bearings because a hub seal needs replacing......kinda the same but not really sorta....?
#20
Slinger, I notice you still haven't given me a reason. If you believe: bad seal = bad bearing, then explain yourself. That is all that I ask. Main bearings and seals are no different than many other bearing/seal combinations so your answer should be universal for everything. My brother mentioned that he noticed the rear main seal was leaking on his '67 Impala. I better let him know the main bearings are on there way out as well.
I want to make something clear. If the bearings were old, or if you just purchased the bike and had no idea how long it had been since they were replaced, then giving the entire engine a once over (including replacing the mains) would not be a bad idea. However, mtecate4g states that the bearings were just replaced. Replacing new bearings that show no signs of wear makes no more sense than replacing a rim when the tire gets bald.
You will notice that I have tried to stay away from the "all-caps" style or any other method of adding some color or humor to a somewhat dull and drawn-out topic. As far as my knowledge, there are two subjects I know alot about; small engines and electricity (I am also a Master Electrician but I would imagine you are too). I enjoy helping people on these two subjects. There are countless other areas that I know next to nothing about and I am not afraid to ask. I am always more than willing to consider (and usually accept) the answer of those that know the field better than I.
I want to make something clear. If the bearings were old, or if you just purchased the bike and had no idea how long it had been since they were replaced, then giving the entire engine a once over (including replacing the mains) would not be a bad idea. However, mtecate4g states that the bearings were just replaced. Replacing new bearings that show no signs of wear makes no more sense than replacing a rim when the tire gets bald.
You will notice that I have tried to stay away from the "all-caps" style or any other method of adding some color or humor to a somewhat dull and drawn-out topic. As far as my knowledge, there are two subjects I know alot about; small engines and electricity (I am also a Master Electrician but I would imagine you are too). I enjoy helping people on these two subjects. There are countless other areas that I know next to nothing about and I am not afraid to ask. I am always more than willing to consider (and usually accept) the answer of those that know the field better than I.


