Having a problem with no having any power on top end. I can only get about 30 mph out of my 2002 700 sportsman. It idles, starts fine. Bogs down when I give it full throttle.
I've cleaned the carb (multiple times), updated the ignition to the one from rmstator, put a new fuel pump in, put all new gas lines in, new plugs, drained old gas, replaced carb boot. Compression checked at 165/160. Leak down tested at less than 10%. I'm at a loss on what to do next.

 

Split boot was the first thing on my mind other than the RM stator kit or rather the Ducati lighting coil that the RM kit uses to power the ignition. Lighting coils can get weak and fail same as the old Ducati ignition stator coils could. That's the main reason I don't like these kits.The problem may lie else where and I hope it is(check out the clutches and belt if you haven't already) and you find it,but imo I wish people would use the Kokusan kits that were actually designed to replace the whole Ducati system. Yes they cost twice as much,but are worth it.

 

I'll check the clutches this afternoon hopefully. The belt looks good but I haven't had the clutch cover all the way off to check the clutches yet.

 

Not quite sure what to do next. Took the clutch cover off, everything looks good, no glazing on clutches, belt looks good. Starts and idles nicely. Revs good in neutral but still same issue with no power. Should I put it on a stand and check the clutches while it's in gear somehow?

 

Did you check the intake manifold under the clamp area? This was another problem on the 700 and sometimes split boots were easily over looked and could suck in air.

 

I put a new boot on it already. Couldn't find a crack but I wanted to eliminate it anyway.

 

Well then after all you've done it's either down to an internal clutch problem.The front clutch you can tell if it's operating ok,closing and opening,rear clutch transfers power to the main output shaft and has an internal spring and 3 rollers. Or it's a problem in the RM stator kit or the Ducati lighting coil that it uses for the ignition source. Plus an old mechanics way of testing if it's an electrical break down is with a timing light. If the light is continuous while it's bogging then usually it's not an electrical problem. If the light flickers in time with the bogging it's usually an electrical problem.I assume you have the manual on this. It has a good section on the clutches that you can check out.