Insulating Trailer
Sep 2, 2005 | 05:15 PM
#1
Thread Starter
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Range Rover
Joined: Apr 2004
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Insulating Trailer
Anyone ever insulated their own trailer. Mine has bare metal roof w/ paneling on sides. Saw an install on a MC website that showed the blue styrofoam wedged between the roof trusses w/o any adhesive etc. holding it in. I'm thinking that adhesive may loosen up w/ condensation & flexing of metal roof while going down road. Anyone have any ideas?
I use in winter for snowmobiling & want to heat the trailer.[img]i/expressions/face-icon-small-happy.gif[/img]
I use in winter for snowmobiling & want to heat the trailer.[img]i/expressions/face-icon-small-happy.gif[/img]
Sep 2, 2005 | 06:25 PM
#2
Weekend Warrior
Joined: May 2005
Posts: 11
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Insulating Trailer
you can buy spray-in polyurethane foam. It comes in a disposable kit http://www.tigerfoam.com/products.php
Sep 2, 2005 | 09:12 PM
#6
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Range Rover
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Insulating Trailer
Stopped @ Home Depot. Looks like the Gorilla Glue will work. Also, they have some aluminum strips 3/4" wide X 8' that could screw on as trim pieces to hold it in[img]i/expressions/face-icon-small-happy.gif[/img]
Sep 2, 2005 | 09:19 PM
#7
Super Quad Patrol
Smokes meat all the time!
Smokes meat all the time!
Joined: Sep 2002
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Insulating Trailer
Originally posted by: Seadog2
Stopped @ Home Depot. Looks like the Gorilla Glue will work. Also, they have some aluminum strips 3/4" wide X 8' that could screw on as trim pieces to hold it in[img]i/expressions/face-icon-small-happy.gif[/img]
Stopped @ Home Depot. Looks like the Gorilla Glue will work. Also, they have some aluminum strips 3/4" wide X 8' that could screw on as trim pieces to hold it in[img]i/expressions/face-icon-small-happy.gif[/img]
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Sep 3, 2005 | 03:02 AM
#8
Weekend Warrior
Joined: Sep 2005
Posts: 2
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Insulating Trailer
READ THIS. Don't take this as an insult. I usually don't give free advice, but most of the people on this forum are young, don't have a lot of money to pay a professional like me, and in the act of trying to save needed money will ask other unknowing fellow riders about something that they are not familiar either and will get really bad advice. Like the advice that is being posted here and could kill them. No joke. NOW READ THIS. I usually get paid $105 per hour for my time.
You can insulate your trailer yourself. There are a few critical materials that you must use. The wrong materials will create a hydrocarbon based combustible chemical reaction. Your material list will consist of: Enough “Oxygen Free” insulated 12-gauge wire to replace all of the wiring in your trailer that will be covered by the insulation; The proper thickness to lay flat between your roof trusses and side wall vertical supports of 1 lbs “Self Extinguishing” rigid foam core (looks exactly like regular Styrofoam but it is not); “Water” based latex adhesive that will adhere to metal (Stay-Seal Adhesives in Los Angeles, CA is my supplier); 1/16th inch wood veneer (Juniper, Cedar or Mahogany); and, a gallon of Weather-Tite II waterproof carpenter’s glue.
You can probably see the lay up schedule already. First rewire the trailer. This wire will not carry any flame in the event of any short. Make sure that all of your wiring is fused protected with no more than a 15-amp fuse. Then laminate the veneer to the metal sides with the latex. Let this dry a couple of days. Cut the rigid core foam to fit in the ceiling. You will laminate this to the veneer already in place with a thin film of the carpenter’s glue. This stage requires that first you make from ½ inch plywood and 2 by 4s a method to press the foam core firmly into place. Carpenters glue will not dry or adhere without about 15 lbs per square foot of pressure. Repeat this process on the sidewalls. You can do the bottom on the trailer as well. Just make sure that you seal the bottom with sheet metal over a thin layer of marine plywood and finish it with metal edge moulding. When you have completed the interior walls, you can finish them with pre-covered interior wall paneling available at any RV dealership that also has a parts and service department. Look at the RVs and pick out the interior wall panel that you like. Expect to pay about $40 per panel. Finished ceiling panel is available as well.
The foam core that we talked about can be purchased at most RV dealerships. Don’t forget to add a carbon monoxide detector to this build. With beginner’s carpentry skills, if you follow my method, you will have a safe, toxic and odor free, quiet and well-insulated, professional looking trailer.
I don’t mean to sound like your mother, but if we are going to read about you, lets read about you standing on the podium holding a trophy. Know what I mean?
You can insulate your trailer yourself. There are a few critical materials that you must use. The wrong materials will create a hydrocarbon based combustible chemical reaction. Your material list will consist of: Enough “Oxygen Free” insulated 12-gauge wire to replace all of the wiring in your trailer that will be covered by the insulation; The proper thickness to lay flat between your roof trusses and side wall vertical supports of 1 lbs “Self Extinguishing” rigid foam core (looks exactly like regular Styrofoam but it is not); “Water” based latex adhesive that will adhere to metal (Stay-Seal Adhesives in Los Angeles, CA is my supplier); 1/16th inch wood veneer (Juniper, Cedar or Mahogany); and, a gallon of Weather-Tite II waterproof carpenter’s glue.
You can probably see the lay up schedule already. First rewire the trailer. This wire will not carry any flame in the event of any short. Make sure that all of your wiring is fused protected with no more than a 15-amp fuse. Then laminate the veneer to the metal sides with the latex. Let this dry a couple of days. Cut the rigid core foam to fit in the ceiling. You will laminate this to the veneer already in place with a thin film of the carpenter’s glue. This stage requires that first you make from ½ inch plywood and 2 by 4s a method to press the foam core firmly into place. Carpenters glue will not dry or adhere without about 15 lbs per square foot of pressure. Repeat this process on the sidewalls. You can do the bottom on the trailer as well. Just make sure that you seal the bottom with sheet metal over a thin layer of marine plywood and finish it with metal edge moulding. When you have completed the interior walls, you can finish them with pre-covered interior wall paneling available at any RV dealership that also has a parts and service department. Look at the RVs and pick out the interior wall panel that you like. Expect to pay about $40 per panel. Finished ceiling panel is available as well.
The foam core that we talked about can be purchased at most RV dealerships. Don’t forget to add a carbon monoxide detector to this build. With beginner’s carpentry skills, if you follow my method, you will have a safe, toxic and odor free, quiet and well-insulated, professional looking trailer.
I don’t mean to sound like your mother, but if we are going to read about you, lets read about you standing on the podium holding a trophy. Know what I mean?
Sep 3, 2005 | 05:42 AM
#9
Super Quad Patrol
Smokes meat all the time!
Smokes meat all the time!
Joined: Sep 2002
Posts: 12,479
Likes: 0
Insulating Trailer
Originally posted by: CPLouis
READ THIS. Don't take this as an insult. I usually don't give free advice, but most of the people on this forum are young, don't have a lot of money to pay a professional like me, and in the act of trying to save needed money will ask other unknowing fellow riders about something that they are not familiar either and will get really bad advice. Like the advice that is being posted here and could kill them. No joke. NOW READ THIS. I usually get paid $105 per hour for my time.
You can insulate your trailer yourself. There are a few critical materials that you must use. The wrong materials will create a hydrocarbon based combustible chemical reaction. Your material list will consist of: Enough “Oxygen Free” insulated 12-gauge wire to replace all of the wiring in your trailer that will be covered by the insulation; The proper thickness to lay flat between your roof trusses and side wall vertical supports of 1 lbs “Self Extinguishing” rigid foam core (looks exactly like regular Styrofoam but it is not); “Water” based latex adhesive that will adhere to metal (Stay-Seal Adhesives in Los Angeles, CA is my supplier); 1/16th inch wood veneer (Juniper, Cedar or Mahogany); and, a gallon of Weather-Tite II waterproof carpenter’s glue.
You can probably see the lay up schedule already. First rewire the trailer. This wire will not carry any flame in the event of any short. Make sure that all of your wiring is fused protected with no more than a 15-amp fuse. Then laminate the veneer to the metal sides with the latex. Let this dry a couple of days. Cut the rigid core foam to fit in the ceiling. You will laminate this to the veneer already in place with a thin film of the carpenter’s glue. This stage requires that first you make from ½ inch plywood and 2 by 4s a method to press the foam core firmly into place. Carpenters glue will not dry or adhere without about 15 lbs per square foot of pressure. Repeat this process on the sidewalls. You can do the bottom on the trailer as well. Just make sure that you seal the bottom with sheet metal over a thin layer of marine plywood and finish it with metal edge moulding. When you have completed the interior walls, you can finish them with pre-covered interior wall paneling available at any RV dealership that also has a parts and service department. Look at the RVs and pick out the interior wall panel that you like. Expect to pay about $40 per panel. Finished ceiling panel is available as well.
The foam core that we talked about can be purchased at most RV dealerships. Don’t forget to add a carbon monoxide detector to this build. With beginner’s carpentry skills, if you follow my method, you will have a safe, toxic and odor free, quiet and well-insulated, professional looking trailer.
I don’t mean to sound like your mother, but if we are going to read about you, lets read about you standing on the podium holding a trophy. Know what I mean?
READ THIS. Don't take this as an insult. I usually don't give free advice, but most of the people on this forum are young, don't have a lot of money to pay a professional like me, and in the act of trying to save needed money will ask other unknowing fellow riders about something that they are not familiar either and will get really bad advice. Like the advice that is being posted here and could kill them. No joke. NOW READ THIS. I usually get paid $105 per hour for my time.
You can insulate your trailer yourself. There are a few critical materials that you must use. The wrong materials will create a hydrocarbon based combustible chemical reaction. Your material list will consist of: Enough “Oxygen Free” insulated 12-gauge wire to replace all of the wiring in your trailer that will be covered by the insulation; The proper thickness to lay flat between your roof trusses and side wall vertical supports of 1 lbs “Self Extinguishing” rigid foam core (looks exactly like regular Styrofoam but it is not); “Water” based latex adhesive that will adhere to metal (Stay-Seal Adhesives in Los Angeles, CA is my supplier); 1/16th inch wood veneer (Juniper, Cedar or Mahogany); and, a gallon of Weather-Tite II waterproof carpenter’s glue.
You can probably see the lay up schedule already. First rewire the trailer. This wire will not carry any flame in the event of any short. Make sure that all of your wiring is fused protected with no more than a 15-amp fuse. Then laminate the veneer to the metal sides with the latex. Let this dry a couple of days. Cut the rigid core foam to fit in the ceiling. You will laminate this to the veneer already in place with a thin film of the carpenter’s glue. This stage requires that first you make from ½ inch plywood and 2 by 4s a method to press the foam core firmly into place. Carpenters glue will not dry or adhere without about 15 lbs per square foot of pressure. Repeat this process on the sidewalls. You can do the bottom on the trailer as well. Just make sure that you seal the bottom with sheet metal over a thin layer of marine plywood and finish it with metal edge moulding. When you have completed the interior walls, you can finish them with pre-covered interior wall paneling available at any RV dealership that also has a parts and service department. Look at the RVs and pick out the interior wall panel that you like. Expect to pay about $40 per panel. Finished ceiling panel is available as well.
The foam core that we talked about can be purchased at most RV dealerships. Don’t forget to add a carbon monoxide detector to this build. With beginner’s carpentry skills, if you follow my method, you will have a safe, toxic and odor free, quiet and well-insulated, professional looking trailer.
I don’t mean to sound like your mother, but if we are going to read about you, lets read about you standing on the podium holding a trophy. Know what I mean?
thank you
Sep 3, 2005 | 07:44 AM
#10
Extreme Pro Rider
Joined: Sep 2003
Posts: 3,770
Likes: 0
Insulating Trailer
It's late[img]i/expressions/face-icon-small-shocked.gif[/img][img]i/expressions/face-icon-small-shocked.gif[/img] 3:30 am so I'll be brief and come back later to follow up........
You saw my pictures that BING pointed out to you. It's pretty easy, no problem at all.
I used the rigid styrofoam boards from home depot. About $9 a sheet. Wasn't to expensive to do my 25' trailer.
I didn't use ANY type of adhesive to hold on the walls or the ceiling. Just cut it to fit and it held itself up just fine until I got the walls put back on. This also worked on the ceiling. I cut it to fit tight and it held itself up between the steel crossmembers with no problem.
For more info, look for another topic INSULATING ENCLOSED TRAILER. There's more info there.
I'll be back later..........after I go take a nap [img]i/expressions/face-icon-small-happy.gif[/img][img]i/expressions/face-icon-small-happy.gif[/img][img]i/expressions/face-icon-small-happy.gif[/img]
You saw my pictures that BING pointed out to you. It's pretty easy, no problem at all.
I used the rigid styrofoam boards from home depot. About $9 a sheet. Wasn't to expensive to do my 25' trailer.
I didn't use ANY type of adhesive to hold on the walls or the ceiling. Just cut it to fit and it held itself up just fine until I got the walls put back on. This also worked on the ceiling. I cut it to fit tight and it held itself up between the steel crossmembers with no problem.
For more info, look for another topic INSULATING ENCLOSED TRAILER. There's more info there.
I'll be back later..........after I go take a nap [img]i/expressions/face-icon-small-happy.gif[/img][img]i/expressions/face-icon-small-happy.gif[/img][img]i/expressions/face-icon-small-happy.gif[/img]