First post over here - monumental - nah [img]i/expressions/face-icon-small-smile.gif[/img]

I have a 1997 Ford Ranger 4X4 with the 4.0 liter V6 and it is a automatic - heres my question - anyone ever install a hitch on one?? the kits you see at the auto parts store look pretty easy (almost to easy) to put on but do the hold up well?? see they just bolt on with no welding - surprised at that - anyway - there is one with a 5000 lb. max trailer weight which i know i can stay under - even with the enclosed trailer and our bikes - but how hard will this be on the transmision of the truck (wind drag and we go through the appalachian mountians in Pennsylvania and know that if i dont switch out of o.d. that it will tear it up)?? wish it was a 5 speed so i wouldnt have to worry but it aint so i am worried - dont wanna replace the trans. If it werent for needing storage i would sell the enclosed and get a open to lighten the load and decrease the wind drag - when we drive the Bronco it aint a problem - doesnt even feel like its back there but am worried about this truck for some reason. I was also going to stick air shocks on there just to help even out the truck while towing - any thoughts??

thanks!!

 

Since you have the Bronco to work with take the trailer, loaded as you would tow it with the Ranger, to a scale and weigh it. Get the axle weight and the tongue weight. This will give you solid numbers to compare to the weight ratings on the Ranger. If it puts you over in any category then you need to downsize your load or use the larger towing vehicle. Guessing at the weights is dangerous and can be really hard on equipment and people.

As to the truck itself, if you are near the weight limits you might want to invest in a transmission cooler and temperature gauge. Check with a local transmission shop that you trust for advice in this area. I have found that a vacuum gauge on the engine is a good idea. Get one that is illuminated that you can read easily. If you maintain a couple of inches of vacuum on the intake manifold you will never be lugging the engine or burning up valves due to high chamber temperatures. This trick also helps with overheating problems as using less horsepower gives more time to get rid of the excess heat. When the vacuum starts getting low it's time to back off on the throttle and/or go to a lower gear. As you mentioned, towing in OD is not a good idea. At least that is what the "experts" tell me.

Any of the truck frames made since the mid 60's do not take well to welding from what I have been told. The way the frames are tempered and the alloys used dictate the use of bolted on attachments. Many manufacturers will void the frame warrantee if welding is done or if additional holes are drilled. Talk to a reputable hitch company about this for specific information on your truck.

Good luck with this project, it could get interesting.

 

tencubed pretty well nailed it. Some other thoughts:

Tranny: as ten noted, check with a reputable transmission shop. You could look also at beefing it up some. Not sure what, if any parts to do so are out there. You're close to 10 years old and probably 120K miles so time may be limited on it anyways. Could save yourself from losing the tranny out on the road. I lost the OD clutches in a GMC Sonoma a little less than 1/2-way on a riding trip. Made it there and back, but the oil companies were happy. So make sure to get out of OD which the truck starts to lose speed on a hill.

Definately get the tranny cooler & gauge. A lot of tow packages will also put on a power steering cooler, no clue why, they do.

Also, you may not be in any better position with a manual. The clutches on the smaller trucks are a bit weak. Though I'm sure it's easier to put a beefier clutch in than beef up an auto-trans.

And yes, all hitches now just bolt up (even the stock units from the manufacturers). There should be holes back there. The best fit would be a unit specifically made for the Ranger. A friend had a Reese that was a One size kinda fits all unit. It worked, but he had to do something to get it to go on his Cherokee.

You look at towing and the equipment as an entire system. The weakest link determines it all. I could bolt up a "Class 5" 2.5" receiver to my F-150 but that doesn't mean I can pull a 12K lb trailer. Check your owners manual for towing information. The previously mentioned Sonoma didn't say a max, or even list a GCWR, just that any towing over 1000lb required trailer brakes. You may need to talk to a dealer (check with the parts guys). Though I think Ford is good at publishing their numbers.

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