Thanks TImo.
RockStompers may be the answer for our plowing needs! That rope appears like it will not kink up and fray like the traditional cable plus it is long enough to use as your winch too compared to the 8foot piece that WARN is selling. Great site. THaNks guys.

 

For the ones here breaking their cable, is anyone using a roller fairlead?

 

A bit more expensive but I don't think is going to wear out for a loooooong time. Masterpull winch rope

 

I've switched to the SYNTH ROPE...but I do not use it for plowing...it is great but it can be damaged. Especially with using it for a plowing application. I opt to replace my rope with a short section of cable for plowing. (don't forget to change the fairlead also) If I go out riding...I simply respool the rope on and replace the alluminum fairlead.

The rope is SPENDY and I hate wasting hard earned money!![img]i/expressions/face-icon-small-wink.gif[/img]

 

I don't know this one could you please give more detail?
For the people who have a multimount system check out Montanna Jacks thing for moving your winch.
I welded brackets onto my plow frame so my cable pulls in straight now instead of making the corner to go down to the plow.

 

I have a roller fairlead on mine, still frays the cable during repeated use lifting the blade. It usually breaks when I lift the blade too high, so that's my own stupid fault.

I nay check out that rockstomper cable, looks like goood stuff.

 

Here is a PDF (Adobe Acrobat Reader) splicing manual for wire rope in logging. Refer to the Marine Rolled Splice. The Loggers Eye shown is good too but the strands must remain outside the line and should therefor be cut off at about 1/4 inch and heated with an acetylene torch until the wires of each gob into a little **** that won't grab cloth or skin. If you wish to use a thimble it is imperative to secure the eye loop tight around the thimble and make your first tucks tight to the ends of it. I don't use a thimble. The splice shown has the strand ends left outside but the core can be cut and rolled out of the live end before the splice is started and when the splice is completed the strands can be cut short and rolled one after the other into the space formerly occupied by the core, and at the last the core is measured and cut to clear the last strand and rolled back in, making for a smooth splice that will not catch clothing or fingers. (and will run through blocks and fairleads, unlike a cable clamped eye. Don't worry about cutting the core, it comprises only 7% of line strength. For the small line used in ATV winches you can spike the eye down to a wood block with an electrical wire staple. I make all my accessory straps this way. A spliced eye will never slip or fail on you. The line will break first.

http://www.worksafebc.com/publicatio...f/splicing.pdf

 

Glenlivet, that was a great link! Thanks, Bob[img]i/expressions/face-icon-small-happy.gif[/img]

 

I've always used a roller fairlead and still break cable. It's way too easy to break these cables with the short distance your lifting and the amount of cable spooled at the touch of the switch. I'm leary of these syn cables and may just make up a short steel one for the winter. When will someone make a downsized hydraulic power angle plow for a quad? Any clever people tried to make one?

 

hello,
i have a 2500 warn winch. wondering what is the correct way to respool cable onto the drum? same procedure if putting a 6 ft section on for plowing? thaks, dave