no its not happin to me, but i heard that the grizzlys tend to over heat and if u put this COOL BLUE in your raditor it helps with keeping engine cool, i also herd i can stop it complety, is this true... and is this the same as the ENGINE ICE, and will they both void the warnty if u put them in there. Anyone ever use these products for there ATVs... please let if u use them and how they work... also where u can get them... thanx jake

 

FITSofRAGE has it in his Grizz. He said it does no extra protection. Nothing works better than water for overheating. I am not saying that water is the best. Ethlene Glycol is used for rust prevention and freeze protection. THAT IS IT. I have never understood how someone can think that one liquid could transfer heat better than another. The liquid doesn't cool, it just transfer heat to the radiator. If you want to get technical, I would agree that the liquid DOES cool the engine, but something has to cool the liquid, or you will overheat. No matter what the liquid is. Period!

 

i think from what i've read about differnt products such as dei rad. releif it says it actually bonds to the metal in the engine giving it less to heat up the metal and to push it thru to the radiator. it the product does whatit say says and cools the engine by 30 degrees that would be huge decrease in operating temps in our quads. i plan on trying this product in my atv and my bike to see if it actually works this coming summer.

 

your grizzly should not be over heating un less the radiator is clogged with mudd or grass, check to make sure the coolant level is normal , and u cant just use water whoever tells u that is retarted, coolant actually brings the boiling point of water to 254 degrees if properly mixed 50/50 50percent water 50 percent coolant, also ur themostat may not be opening

 

Hi guys, retard here. It seems to me that what changes the boiling point is the pressure inside the cooling system. A vacuum actually lowers the boiling point to below 212, and pressure increases it to above 212, depending on amount of pres/vacuum. Coolant may change it, but that doesn't mean that it would transfer heat better. This thread is about heat transfer, not boiling points. Thanks for your 2 pennies! I was wrong once, but I found out that I was actually mistaken. Does that mean that I was still wrong?[img]i/expressions/face-icon-small-confused.gif[/img]

Maybe the fins are bent too much on the radiator. You could always recommend a 3 pass radiator from High-Lifter, about $350.

 

I've ran Redline water wetter in my drag car and it lowered the temp by 15 degrees. Temp was something that I watched closely, and 15 degrees was well worth the money. This was after running pure water. Tracks frown on running antifreeze in race cars. I don't know how it worked and don't care. Just know it did. I now run it in my Rincon.

 

HEAT TRANSFER
Red Line WaterWetter can reduce cooling system
temperatures compared to glycol solutions and even
plain water. Water has excellent heat transfer properties
in its liquid state, but very high surface tension
makes it difficult to release water vapor from the
metal surface. Under heavy load conditions, much of
the heat in the cylinder head is transferred by localized
boiling at hot spots, even though the bulk of the
cooling solution is below the boiling point. Red Line's
unique WaterWetter reduces the surface tension of
water by a factor of two, which means that much
smaller vapor bubbles will be formed. Vapor bubbles
on the metal surface create an insulating layer which
impedes heat transfer. Releasing these vapor bubbles
from the metal surface can improve the heat
transfer properties in this localized boiling region by
as much as 15%



DYNO TEST RESULTS

Dynomometer tests performed by Malcolm Garrett
Racing Engines showed significant improvements in
coolant temperatures using WaterWetter. These
tests were performed with a Chevrolet 350 V-8 with a
cast iron block and aluminum cylinder heads. The
thermostat temperature was 160 deg.F. The engine operated
at 7200 rpm for three hours and the stabilized
cooling system temperature was recorded and tabulated
below:

• [*]
• [*]
• [*]
• [*]

These numbers are similar to the temperatures
recorded in track use and heavy-duty street use.


COOLANT EFFECTS ON PERFORMANCE

Under moderate load conditions, each percent glycol
raises cylinder head temperatures by 1 deg. F. 50% glycol
raises head temperatures by 45 deg.F. This increase in
temperature will raise the octane required for trace
knock levels by typically 3.5 octane numbers. A car
equipped with a knock sensor will retard the timing to
compensate for the increase in octane requirement
by approximately 5 deg, which will reduce the maximum
brake torque by about 2.1%. Racing vehicles not
equipped with knock sensors can advance timing for
increased torque.

 

I will not argue those facts, afterall I do not do dyno tests. But, I will state that a car cooling system is about 4 times larger than a quad. Plus the "block/water surface area" is much larger in a car. So, I think it would stand to reason that you should take the temp drop from the car results and divide it by 4. 16 degrees drop in a car is about 4 degrees drop in a quad. 4 degrees isn't much. Not worth the money to me. But feel free to make your own decision!

 

Wow, I still don't care how it works, but that was an impressive post.

 

Heyguys, Awsome post lets go on are we acually decreasing our hp because of added heat or n/a.