NEED HELP.. OVER HEATING! 2001 polaris 500 ho
#21
I have removed the radiator completely and really cleaned it. as for the impeller i could spin it but had to push hard ( by spin i mean move it slightly). should it not be able to move unless the motor is running? and ill check the wires hopefully this week. Ive tried running it with the thermostat completely out and it was the same as before really. I appreciate all your help and cant thank you enough.
#22
Yes you should be able to move the impeller slightly,thought you meant you were able to turn it around which you shouldn't be able to. Check the wiring like you posted,plus if you've purged all the air from the system it shouldn't be spewing out of the radiator and the fan should be kicking on way before it gets too hot.
#23
So I got a new circuit breaker and tried it last night. With the thermostat out and a radiator cap from a 500 polaris magnum it was working (fan on, no problems) but the quad was on a jack 6 in above the ground. I ran it for a while with no probs but when i set it all the way down it started to push more coolant into the reserve which then over flowed and then started to bubble/boil. when the fan comes on it sucks the coolant back from the overflow. as long as i kept refilling the overflow it wouldnt over heat but it i left it long enough it would then suck in air n overheat.
I changed caps to a 16psi bc the auto store gave me the wrong one and i didnt check it. my fault. so ill get a 13psi today...anyways with the 16psi cap it was pushing coolant out of where the thermostat sits bc it was out but not boiling coolant into the reserve.. then with the thermostat in I couldnt get it to work properly possible due to air lock. but it was overheating really fast so i just left it for the night.
does that sound like a bad cap for the 13psi? and does orientation of the thermostat matter? should it be straight up and down or left to right acording to the middle bar on the outter side? thanks.
I changed caps to a 16psi bc the auto store gave me the wrong one and i didnt check it. my fault. so ill get a 13psi today...anyways with the 16psi cap it was pushing coolant out of where the thermostat sits bc it was out but not boiling coolant into the reserve.. then with the thermostat in I couldnt get it to work properly possible due to air lock. but it was overheating really fast so i just left it for the night.
does that sound like a bad cap for the 13psi? and does orientation of the thermostat matter? should it be straight up and down or left to right acording to the middle bar on the outter side? thanks.
#24
Alrighty... so i went back to the impeller and now its way worse. i can spin it by hand easily. it wasnt like that when i started this " adventure" . anyways my next question is if it spins easily does that mean the shaft is broke ? also I went to remove the impeller and i broke the nut loose but the shaft just spins so i cant get the nut off..
#25
Sounds like either the oil pump shaft sprocket(even though it has two mounting bolts) or even possibly the crank sprocket may have broken if the impeller shaft turns with no resistance. If this is the case the engine would have to be split. This is actually the oil pump shaft and works the impeller also.Dirt Cheap Yamaha, Honda, Arctic Cat & Polaris OEM Parts & Accessories – Cycle Parts Warehouse
Plus there are two dowel pins that lock the shaft in also.Hasn't ever happened to me,but I've heard of the shaft just snapping also.
Plus there are two dowel pins that lock the shaft in also.Hasn't ever happened to me,but I've heard of the shaft just snapping also.
#27
Update.. I have split the motor and the shaft was bent in 2 spots. also the cam chain guide's metal seat for the one that is not bolted in was broken so metal was in the bottom end. all of it was sitting in the oil pumps filter. now im just ordering parts and waiting...
just wanted to say thanks to Old polaris tech, you have help me so much and i cant thank you enough for being patient with all of my questions.
side note, I didnt have the correct puller for the flywheel or drive clutch but my dealer in Princeville, IL just allowed me to stop by with the bottom end and they took the few mins to pull them for me. FOR FREE . So if anyone is ever in a bind just ask your dealer for a helping hand and they might not cost ya an arm or leg. lol
just wanted to say thanks to Old polaris tech, you have help me so much and i cant thank you enough for being patient with all of my questions.
side note, I didnt have the correct puller for the flywheel or drive clutch but my dealer in Princeville, IL just allowed me to stop by with the bottom end and they took the few mins to pull them for me. FOR FREE . So if anyone is ever in a bind just ask your dealer for a helping hand and they might not cost ya an arm or leg. lol
#28
Be sure to clean all the shavings from the pump screen and cases when you have it apart to install the new shaft. It's easier to install the new water pump seal and oil seal while the cases are apart. That way you don't have to be around the new shaft. When it's ready to crank up, clamp off the oil tank vent line so the pump can prime quickly also. Good luck with the repair.
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