Hiram,
Did you use the clear tube method of checking the float or did you physically measure the float vs. gasket mating surface?

It looks almost impossible to measure without the clear tube.

But then, if you do that, you have to measure, pull the carb to adjust, remount the carb to measure again, etc.

Do you have an easier way?

Thanks

 

I did all my checking and adjustments with the carbs off the quad, First I took off the gas tank and the carbs, put the gas tank on top of a table, put a piece of clear hose on the carb opened the drain screw until all drained out bent the hose up along side the carb, connected the fuel tank to the carbs and let it flow while sitting on the floor and holding the carbs matting surfaces level and checked, I would then turn off the fuel, open the carb adjust and repeat. Once satisfied I reinstalled everything back on the quad.

 

slappie -

At least on a factory warrior & wolverine carb, there's a second procedure for measuring float height with the carb off the motor. For my carb, you lay it upside down on a table and set the float so it rests on but doesn't close the needle - then the float bottom (top, really, since it's upside down now) has to be .45-.55 inches (12-??mm) above the edge of the carb (where the float bowl cover mates to the carb body). Not sure if this applies in your case...

 

Thanks.

I've tried looking at it that way but either I am an idiot (highly likely) or I can't begin to figure out when the float just begins to touch the needle but not compress it to take the measurement.

I think I'm just so rich on the needle that when I take the lid off it clears it up b/c of all the extra air flow. I'll check my floats too while I'm at it but I think its just needle and foolin' around right now that will get me there.

Even with the richness, when I take the lid off it goes up to about 1/2 throttle (I'm still breaking it in so I can't go full or even 3/4) and pulls hard as hell! It feels like its floating it accelerates so darn quick.

I can't wait to get her all broken in and dialed in.

Can't do any more break in tonight though b/c of the huge rainstorm in Dallas.

 

Sounds to me just like mines was acting, definitly check the float. DieselGeek on the Raptor it's similar but I just turn to carb upsidedown with the bowl removed and adjust until it's parrell with the matting surface, make sure the amount of exposed float is the same on the hinge side (back) as the front side.

 

Slappie properly adjusting the float level is the starting block for tuning the rest of the carb. The tube method is the more precise way of doing it IMO. I do it the same as Hiram but on the quad, just don't bolt or camp anything down till you have it adjusted properly. Oh and your more than welcome Hiram. Glad you got it running good.

 

I was chasing what I thought was an electrical problem but now think it's my floats. I am running VP 105 (Red) and can't get the floats to adjust the bowl level below the carb mating surface. It will run like crazy for a short distance (100 feet) but then start coughing and sputtering and shuts off. If I let it sit for a minute, it will run like crazy again. It seems like the bowl is running empty but that's not what the clear tube shows, bowl level is exactly even with the bowl/carb mating line.

 

Ubetrun, I was out riding around the nieghbor today and Im having problems again similar to yours but when I let of the gas it will cough and want to turn off and wont run right again for a minute to minute and a half I have to flutter the throttle to keep it running until it clears up, it's driving me to drink, I think it might have to do with the VP fuel properties. HELP !!!! how should we set our floats when running VP type fuels, for me to bend the tab enough to keep it the level just above the matting surface doesnt let the float open the needle enough, the float has a stopper on the hinge side Im thinking of sanding down some or just removing to let it open more, should I consider that or not?????

 

I don't know about sanding anything in the carb, I haven't heard of anyone else having to do it. I got mine to run a little better tonight by setting the floats exactly to the bowl/carb line and leaning the AF screws down to about 1.5 turns each. I'm running 12:1 w/Craycraft porting and coating, 195/200 mains, 27.5 pilots, mikuni jets and needle on the 4th clip, AF 1.5 turns. The cops were already at the house tonight so I can't really test this setup. I will give it a run first thing in the AM and report back. I also found that my positive battery terminal was loose so I did have some electrical gremlins in the mix.

 

Have you two figured anything out yet? Hiram may be on to something with the float drop, and maybe you'll have to set your float level a little higher. Ubetrun have you pulled your plug after it died?