How to adjust raptor floats
#1
my left carb was pouring gas out the float bowl, and I'm not real sure the easiest way to adjust the float level. I have the carbs out, and the bowls off. can someone explain the simplest way to adjust them? Thanks
#2
This is the best way.
The best thing to do is check it before you take it apart, with a piece of clear tubing. You can get the tubing at a hardware store for 20 cents, 1/8" clear tubing.
Thu September 05, 2002 3:11 AM
The quick & easy way to check float levels is to use a clear tube that fits the dump hole on the bottom of the carbs. You'll need at least one foot of tubing. Don't worry about an exact fit, the tubing can be a little bigger which will cause some of the gas to leak out but gravity is forgiving and is constant! You can get the tubing from your Yamaha dealer for a few bucks. Remove the stock dump hole tubing, put the new tubing on there & then bend up the other end and run it along side of the carb with the open end facing up. Then open the drain screw next to where the tube is connected & the level of gas in the tube should fill up & be level with or slightly above the bottom/top half of the carb's mating surface. If not, you'll need to adjust the float levels. A sign that the float levels are too high is if the stock drain tubes leak gas while your riding, you'll smell it for sure.
I just pop the carbs on the boots and set the tank on the frame and hook up the hose to check it again, you may have to take it back off once or twice to get it perfect. I also measure the amount that it is off and then take it apart, measure the float height and then bend the tab enough to raise or lower the float the amount that it was off. If that makes any sense.
[img]i/expressions/face-icon-small-blush.gif[/img]
The best thing to do is check it before you take it apart, with a piece of clear tubing. You can get the tubing at a hardware store for 20 cents, 1/8" clear tubing.
Thu September 05, 2002 3:11 AM
The quick & easy way to check float levels is to use a clear tube that fits the dump hole on the bottom of the carbs. You'll need at least one foot of tubing. Don't worry about an exact fit, the tubing can be a little bigger which will cause some of the gas to leak out but gravity is forgiving and is constant! You can get the tubing from your Yamaha dealer for a few bucks. Remove the stock dump hole tubing, put the new tubing on there & then bend up the other end and run it along side of the carb with the open end facing up. Then open the drain screw next to where the tube is connected & the level of gas in the tube should fill up & be level with or slightly above the bottom/top half of the carb's mating surface. If not, you'll need to adjust the float levels. A sign that the float levels are too high is if the stock drain tubes leak gas while your riding, you'll smell it for sure.
I just pop the carbs on the boots and set the tank on the frame and hook up the hose to check it again, you may have to take it back off once or twice to get it perfect. I also measure the amount that it is off and then take it apart, measure the float height and then bend the tab enough to raise or lower the float the amount that it was off. If that makes any sense.
[img]i/expressions/face-icon-small-blush.gif[/img]
#4
The little metal tab on the float.If you need to lower the float level you bend the tab toward the needle valve and visa e versa. A few people have had a hard time bending the tab far enough to get the proper level, you may need to put a bit of a Z bend in the tab to keep the tab some what parallel with the needle valve.
#5
I HATE floats!!!!
Adam what fuel are you using??? If it is just one carb you might just have a peice of trash under the needle. Blow everything out with some compressed air/carb cleaner. But the way he said to check them is BY FAR the best!!!
I found some tubing at Home Depot that fit well. I leave it on for my drains now. If I need to check all I have to do is just pull it up and look.
Adam what fuel are you using??? If it is just one carb you might just have a peice of trash under the needle. Blow everything out with some compressed air/carb cleaner. But the way he said to check them is BY FAR the best!!!
I found some tubing at Home Depot that fit well. I leave it on for my drains now. If I need to check all I have to do is just pull it up and look.
#6
Ward - Did you ever get your new needles? Did they work any better with the C12? I have one that still acts up once in a while and was wondering if a replacement would seal a little better. Something like $40 a pop, stealership only can get them?
#7
Yup, I bought 2 new needle and seat valves (they come as a set per carbs). Did it work....HECK NO. But I am done with that, and moving on...methanol. Good news is I doesn't have a high fuel level problem now. Bad news I am having MAJOR needle troubles. All in time I guess.
Your dealer would probably be the most easy place to get them. You could find them online but probably not much cheaper. Mine were $26 a set.
Try this, I don't know if it will work but ...well you'll see. It helped me out, different reason but...
Get some REALLY fine steel wool, get a tiny rod ( about 1/2 the size as the needle valve) I used the thin end of a rivet, scar one end of it a little, wrap the steel wool around it were it will snuggly fit into the seat, put it in a drill and slowly turn it in the seat. This polished/cleaned/helped a problem with my seats.
Your dealer would probably be the most easy place to get them. You could find them online but probably not much cheaper. Mine were $26 a set.
Try this, I don't know if it will work but ...well you'll see. It helped me out, different reason but...
Get some REALLY fine steel wool, get a tiny rod ( about 1/2 the size as the needle valve) I used the thin end of a rivet, scar one end of it a little, wrap the steel wool around it were it will snuggly fit into the seat, put it in a drill and slowly turn it in the seat. This polished/cleaned/helped a problem with my seats.
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#9
I seem to have mine under control. I took a small hunk of 1500 grit emory cloth and twisted it into a taper and cleaned up the edges of the seats by hand. I bent the float tabs into a Z and set them to .6" as measured to the line on the float, not the top of the float. I also shaved a tad off the plastic float stop to allow the floats to drop lower when the bowl empties. If I still have trouble after this "final" adjustment, I'm getting FCRs.
#10
Ubetrun did you use the tube to see where the level is after you adjusted them the way you discribed? And have you checked the flow out of the drain? I would think that you would need to get at least a cup a minute from both at once. Just curious.


