Yes i do,i just went this weekend and they are acting up,i need to get in there to clean and check the fuel mix level,it rips wide open but down low it sputters and wants to shut off,and i am also having trouble starting..kinda like the choke was on but it wasent,i believe it's the fuel mix screws since i have not touched since the carb mods..

 

It sounds like your needle valve seat may have a piece of crap stuck in it. I would look there first, after you check the float level.[img]i/expressions/face-icon-small-wink.gif[/img] What needles are in your carbs or do ya know? Dynojets,stock,GYTR,ect...

 

I had mines running great, and all it took was a steady hand and my dremel tool.

 

Hiram, what did you do with the dremel?[img]i/expressions/face-icon-small-shocked.gif[/img]

 

Ok, I've got no more answers except to go FCR. I know you aren't wanting to go that route, however, but it sounds like that is what that monster wants.

 

Talked to my mechanis and he thinks that it's the alltitude from where i was at,i usually ride Glamis or Dumont at 5--to 1000 feet above sea level and the places i was riding at this weekend were 4000-5000 feet in elevation,so i am going to try it out at Glamis and he will be there to assist in any problems or solutions ,at WOt the thing is a beast and i have no problem with the carbs getting fuel,it's just doesent like to be lugged around,..

I am going to experiment with the Lectrons carbs when i get some new carbs this year,just as good as FCR or better..

 

My thoughts exactley.[img]i/expressions/face-icon-small-cool.gif[/img]

 

Maybe it is more than money? I, like many others, like to be able to say "I built up my bike" when they asked who did the work on it, and not say, "sparks, trinity, blah blah" some people enjoy putting there own bikes together, and theres nothing wrong with having a shop do it. Some people just expand the hobbie when there not riding.

 

Working on your own bike is half the fun of ownership to me, I also feel these forums are supposed to be for sharing or is it for free advertising??? I hope I don't cause any tension here by chosening to share;
The problem lies between balancing the flow and keeping the proper float level and having them both work together,
The float has a stopper tab which catches the float as it swings and prevents it from swinging all the way around or down too far, this tab is what needs to be to sanded down by half of the original stopper thickness which will give the floats approx. 3mm more dropping/swinging room thus allowing the needle to drop more and "wala" they will now flow like crazy while maintain the perfect float/fuel level in the bowl. This mod on my 686 Raptor made it run perfect through out the whole RPM range and could maintain WOT with no signs of starting to run dry even running c12 race fuel.

 

I also share the good feeling and fun of working on my own bikes. And I believe that sharing is what its all about. So I will share a little also, I hope the Guys that were good enough to share it with me won't me mad. On top of the mod that you stated you can also use needle valve and seat out of a 03 Grizzly or a Bomb.(DS) that are a little larger and allow for more flow also. Then for the duel feed option I drilled out and tapped my right hand carb to accept fuel from that side also. The problem with the Higher HP Raptors is that where the needle (above the main jet) and the orface tube that it runns in is too small for the mid range/top end on some bikes. A smaller needle is needed. Which one or how much to mod the stock one is the question. Or how to mod the tube? Hope we all keep shareing and all have better running quads because of it.[img]i/expressions/face-icon-small-smile.gif[/img]