Stupid Mistake Wrong Oil Need Advice
#12
I think the main point is you have not hurt your engine one bit.
Maybe a little of these friction modifiers will help me between the inlet and the outlet of the human anatomy because when using the outhouse its down right cold this time of year, got to move fast[img]i/expressions/face-icon-small-blush.gif[/img]
Maybe a little of these friction modifiers will help me between the inlet and the outlet of the human anatomy because when using the outhouse its down right cold this time of year, got to move fast[img]i/expressions/face-icon-small-blush.gif[/img]
#13
Originally posted by: garyc660R
IMO, don't believe the BS your dealer gives you on buying their $5 a quart "atv" oil.
IMO, don't believe the BS your dealer gives you on buying their $5 a quart "atv" oil.
Its all marketing. Its just valvoline,penzoil, quaker state, whatever with a motorcycle label on it and they charge ya 3 times as much for it cause its "motorcycle oil" Think about it? Look at the size of the auto motors and the hp and torque #'s they're putting out. AND they do this for 3000-5000mi!! You REALLY think that your dinky little quad pushing between 18-70hp, febile torque #'s compared to autos, and going maybe 1000mi before changing oil is really going to make this oil inadequate? Please. Any automotive motor oil can handle MORE than you or your quad/motorcycle can dish out. The key is routine oil/filter changes.......
Sorry buckmark.....to answer your question [img]i/expressions/face-icon-small-smile.gif[/img] You should be able to drain the "bad" stuff, change the filter, and put the "good " stuff in and be fine. I've done it before too, [img]i/expressions/face-icon-small-blush.gif[/img] have noticed no probs after just swapping out the oil. [img]i/expressions/face-icon-small-smile.gif[/img]
#14
There are other things to consider, besides the moly aditives(energy conserving additive).
Some Atvs and motorcycles have gearboxes, which share the oil with the motor. The gearboxes have gears that need to be protected from each other(wear and extreme pressure ). Thats another reason most atv and motorcycles have a sugested SG, oil rating.
They reduced the amount of, i believe zink, in oils after SG, and increased the moly, two reasons not to use so called modern oil.
Automobile motors dont have gears meshing, like you atv tranny, so SH and up is fine for them.
Some Atvs and motorcycles have gearboxes, which share the oil with the motor. The gearboxes have gears that need to be protected from each other(wear and extreme pressure ). Thats another reason most atv and motorcycles have a sugested SG, oil rating.
They reduced the amount of, i believe zink, in oils after SG, and increased the moly, two reasons not to use so called modern oil.
Automobile motors dont have gears meshing, like you atv tranny, so SH and up is fine for them.
#15
Flynbryan said that cars make lots more power and go many more miles. Take a 2-stroke 250 that has .250 liters. It makes like 40-45 HP. A car that has 10 times the displacement making the same about of HP per liter would have 400-450 HP out of 2.5 liters. That is a pretty substantial amount of power for a 2.5 liter engine. This is why regular car oil is not as good, in my opinon. This is just my opinion. I am 20 years old and have never rebuilt an atv/dirt bike engine so I do not understand how they wear.
#16
My main point is that "motorcycle/atv oil" is mostly hype. I have ran both automotive oil and "motorcycle oil" in all my motorcycles/atvs for the last 10yrs. I found no difference in performance/life out of either one. I ran the "motorcycle oil" in mine at the time becuase I had a sponsorship that allowed me to get it at the same price I could buy synthetic auto oil in the stores. After I quit racing I went back to the auto oils and have noticed no difference in performance or wear be it clutch, transmission, etc. I believe(and note that that means it is just my opinion) that it all boils down to using a good quality oil, and routine oil / filter changes.
What information/facts did you find that proved to you that auto oil was not up to the task BVFD? Not antaginizing you, I'm just interested to see what results you have to sway you into the direction that auto oil is not as good?
What information/facts did you find that proved to you that auto oil was not up to the task BVFD? Not antaginizing you, I'm just interested to see what results you have to sway you into the direction that auto oil is not as good?
#17
I always ran Golden Spectro 80 weight in my Blaster when I was in sixth grade. One time my dad would not take me to buy oil so I put Valvoline 10/30 that I found in the garage. My clutch started to slip but when I finally got more Spectro, the slipping stopped.
#18
Did the Valvoline have friction modifiers? They are designed to "cling" to "hot spots" in your motor to prevent wear. As you know clutches are designed to cause friction. That is how you have engagement. If you were using an oil with friction modifiers it would cause your clutch to slip.


