kibblewhite valve springs on a stage 1 hotcam
#2
Why on earth wouldl you think about installing higher rate springs on a cam that does'nt require them? The springs are gonna suck horsepower from the engine and the entire valvetrain will wear at a faster rate because of the increased spring pressure unnecessarily.
#4
Originally posted by: garyc660R
Why on earth wouldl you think about installing higher rate springs on a cam that does'nt require them? The springs are gonna suck horsepower from the engine and the entire valvetrain will wear at a faster rate because of the increased spring pressure unnecessarily.
Why on earth wouldl you think about installing higher rate springs on a cam that does'nt require them? The springs are gonna suck horsepower from the engine and the entire valvetrain will wear at a faster rate because of the increased spring pressure unnecessarily.
#5
Barletts rides DS's and he rides a raptor,totally diffrent bikes and specs on builds,no offense barlett but they do Rob HP and no need for them with a stage1 cam,i have never floated a valve on my stage1..
#6
You guys are full of ****.
Austin, you are asking all the same questions I did.
I installed my stage I with my original springs to begin with. I rode it for a while like this and then went to kibblewhite dual springs (the same ones I am now using on my stage II).
I lost no hp going to the stronger springs nor did I have any different engine wear when I took it back apart. According to the cam manufacturers, new springs aren't needed. For me, it was piece of mind knowing there was no chance of floating a valve. As long as you keep them in spec (clearance), there will be no side effects from running stiffer springs.
~HoundDog
P.S. Raptor03
DS v. Raptor... works the same way, DS components just tend to be a little larger. Same principles apply. Sorry to ruin your arguement.
Austin, you are asking all the same questions I did.
I installed my stage I with my original springs to begin with. I rode it for a while like this and then went to kibblewhite dual springs (the same ones I am now using on my stage II).
I lost no hp going to the stronger springs nor did I have any different engine wear when I took it back apart. According to the cam manufacturers, new springs aren't needed. For me, it was piece of mind knowing there was no chance of floating a valve. As long as you keep them in spec (clearance), there will be no side effects from running stiffer springs.
~HoundDog
P.S. Raptor03
DS v. Raptor... works the same way, DS components just tend to be a little larger. Same principles apply. Sorry to ruin your arguement.
#7
installed the cam today but could not install the springs., dont have the tool to put them on where can i get one. do you have to get new valve spring retainers or do you use the ones that are stock the kit didnt come with any so i just quit and did not go any further
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#8
How hard is it to install the aftermarket valve springs...I'm going with a stage 2 cam, 11:1 piston, and I was wondering if I should get a shop to install my valve springs and adjust them??? Good idea or not.
#9
You might lose a whole 1 HP maybe 2 but I doubt it. The stock springs will usually not meet specs. from what I've heard with very little time on them.
The intake valves seem to be a little soft and the timing chain is a little on the weak side, so the best thing would be to put SS intake valves in and a new chain. Even if you didn't do those I would put in the new springs and then you'd be all set up for a stage 2 if you want to change.
The intake valves seem to be a little soft and the timing chain is a little on the weak side, so the best thing would be to put SS intake valves in and a new chain. Even if you didn't do those I would put in the new springs and then you'd be all set up for a stage 2 if you want to change.


