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Changing brake pads on wolverine

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Old Jan 2, 2004 | 10:48 AM
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Aramis's Avatar
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Default Changing brake pads on wolverine

Hi all ,

I was looking at the service manual for my 99 wolverine,

Changing the brake pads seems like it's easy, but they mention you have to replace the shims and springs as a normal part of replacing the pads.

Is there any truth in this? I'm guessing it's true if they are damaged or worn, but anything else I should know?

And also, do you absolutely have to bleed the lines? Or is that only if you change the calipers?

Thanks to all who will take a few seconds to help out...

Aramis
 
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Old Jan 2, 2004 | 10:54 AM
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Default Changing brake pads on wolverine

When I changed my front brakes, all I did was change the pads. I had to crack open the bleeder valves to compress the piston. I'm not sure if that is normal, but it's what I had to do. I just bled the brakes after I was done with the brake job, no big deal.
 
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Old Jan 2, 2004 | 11:05 AM
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Default Changing brake pads on wolverine



Bleeding really isn't an issue, but you're right, if the piston needs to be pushed in, I might need to do like you did.

Thanks for you reply...

Aramis
 
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Old Jan 2, 2004 | 03:16 PM
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Default Changing brake pads on wolverine

You can take the caliper off the spindle, but don't crack or remove the brake line. Once this is done, you can use a screwdriver in between the old brake pads to push the caliper back in to make room for the new, thicker pads. If done this way, you do not have to bleed the brakes at all. Keep in mind that if you have ever added fluid to the resivoir, there may not be enough room in the cavity for all the fluid you will be pushing back into it. In all the bikes I have done this too, I have not had this problem yet, but be aware.

As for replacing the shims.. I have nv er done that either. They seem never to wear. I could imagine that if you run highly salty conditions that they may rust, but still assuming on my part.

Ride On.
 
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Old Jan 3, 2004 | 02:15 PM
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Default Changing brake pads on wolverine


Thanks a lot for you response...

I was thinking of that problem exactly, the part about maybe having too much brake fluid in the system to prevent the calipers from retracting correctly.

I bought the Wolverine used and never had to add oil to the system, but I can guess it's full to the max as there doesn't seem to have a little bubble of air on the indicator of the master cylinder.

If that's the case, might have to bleed some.

Thanks.

Aramis
 
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