Raptor jetting (again)
#1
Sorry for this being up again. I found the info a while back in here, but lost it and can't figure out where I found it.
I have a new Yosh. comp. full pipe coming along with a K&N. Along with that I have ordered a jetting kit.
I have never done any jetting before, so am a little leary of going in blind. I remember some time back someone posted a more or less step by step of what you need to do. I'm not a mechanic, but I'm also not an idiot either. Can anyone help me make this a smoother change? I'm heading to the Oregon dunes for the next week. Any suggestions on which jets, clip settings, mix settings, or anything else you think I should know about.
Anyone else going this week? I'll be in Winchester Sat an Sun, and then Florence the rest of the week.
Thanks guys,
Raq
I have a new Yosh. comp. full pipe coming along with a K&N. Along with that I have ordered a jetting kit.
I have never done any jetting before, so am a little leary of going in blind. I remember some time back someone posted a more or less step by step of what you need to do. I'm not a mechanic, but I'm also not an idiot either. Can anyone help me make this a smoother change? I'm heading to the Oregon dunes for the next week. Any suggestions on which jets, clip settings, mix settings, or anything else you think I should know about.
Anyone else going this week? I'll be in Winchester Sat an Sun, and then Florence the rest of the week.
Thanks guys,
Raq
#4
I wrote this for someone else so disregard some of the numbers but this should help.
I dont know if this is exact or anything and I dont know what you know so I tried to walk you through everything. Read it all first before you do anything because I might have screwed some things up. Took to long to type and didnt feel like proof reading it. Im also not saying Im 100% correct with this but I think its right.
First and foremost I would say check your float levels before you jet your fourwheeler. Search floats on here there are some good explainations on how to do this. (clear tube method) very easy to check. If they are in spec move onto jetting. If they are out of spec you will have to follow the instructions given and do it after step 11. Well I guess either way move onto the next steps here...
1. Turn fuel off and start and let run until it stalls.
2. Remove front grill (2 allen cap screws) on top, then grill pops off.
3. Remove 2 bolts from under seat, 1 bolt from under grill, 2 bolts from top of each head light bracket, 2 screw nut combos on fender brace. pull the 4 plastic pushpins(look like plasitc philips screws, i just pop them out or you can try and turn them, by popping out i mean pop the centers up and pull them out) from the gas tank cover..
4. Remove 3 bolts from tank. Remove line from tank at petcock valve use pliers or what i do is stick a flat screwdriver into the gap and pry off the petcock doesnt require much pressure. Remove tank.
5. Remove airbox lid and crankcase breather hose from snorkle.
6. You can either unscrew the rubber protector from the frame or just fold it back. I usually fold it back and snag it on the airbox somehow so it stays out of the way.
7. Remove the 2 I believe they are vacuum lines from the top of the carbs and remove the hose connected to the black swivel in the center of the 2 carbs on airbox side.
8. Loosen all 4 clamps to the carb boots(I recommend T-handle allen wrenches for this almost a must in my opinion, reason later) make sure they are very loose(I loosen them to where they are about ready to fall out of the clamp). I usually grab both airbox to carb boots and pull them off then i stick a finger in each and pull them up out of the way and then pull the carbs out.
9. Now that the carbs are out keep them right side up until you can get something to drain the remaining gas out of the carbs. I usually grab a 20oz bottle and place that black swivel male fitting from the top center airbox side of carb into the bottle and turn the carbs over nearly all the remaining gas will pour out that fitting.
10. Ok gas is out now its time to take the bowls off. BE VERY CAREFUL WITH THESE SCREWS THEY STRIP EASILY. Remove the 4 screws from each bowl. Here is something to try and break them loose by loosening motion if they do not budge that way and start to strip the scews try and reverse the process and tighten them you will here and feel a snap then they come loose freely. The reason is I believe the metal corrodes together and tighten actually helps break that bond and doesnt strip the screws in the way to get them off.
11. Now go to the hardware store and replace those screws with bolts or cap screws(allen bolts) I dont know the size some people have post the size here. All I did was I went to the metric section and picked out a nut that fit the original screws. Then found the mate in size for a small bolt. From what I have read I believe that cap screws I think thats what they are called if not excuse me would work best eventhough I used the bolts. What i had to do with the bolts is machine a 7mm sockey down around the outside to help clear the bowls when trying to tighten the socket hits the bowls and gives the false impression of being tight or that they are crossthreaded. AFTER REPLACING THE SCREWS IT WOULD BE BEST TO DO IT ONE BOWL AT A TIME. I take one apart jet it, put back together and then take the other bowl off. I do this to make sure i dont hit the other float when not working on that side and knocking it out of whack.
12. Ok now you are ready for gets the main jet is easy to identify its nearly in the center of the bowl with a collar on it. Take a regular screw driver and the correct size wrench to hold the base in place, break the jet loose. In some cases you dont need a wrench at all just use the screwdriver but if you see the entire main jet assembly spin you will need to hold the base in place. Take the jet out of the collar and put the new one in it and replace it. Now replace your pilot jet. Im assuming you already have it before you do this so just match it up to the correct jet I dont know how to explain this one other then its a longer jet and will be marked 22.5 i think. Do not overtighten the jets, just make sure they are snug.
****Left carb gets the smaller jet/Right gets the bigger jet****Hence the sayings like 165/170 L/R Left also being shifter side or this is in respect to sitting on the machine. Or keep in mind you can always look at the jets that are in there if stock its 140/145 self explanitory which one gets the bigger jet.
13. Reinstall the bowl with new screws/bolts I HOPE(An absolute MUST, sorry cant stress that enough). Reapeat steps 12 and 13 for second carb.
14. Jets are in, floats are adjusted, bowls are tightened. Now adjust your fuel screw on the bottom of the carbs (not sure what side) I think its motor side, to whatever setting you wish to use. Turn them all the way in not tight just snug then back them out to what you said you are going 2.5 turns. Reinstall the carbs once again make sure the clamps are VERY loose, push the carbs back into the intake boots bolted to the motor. Inspect them closely to make sure they are seated all the way on all the way around the carb. You can tighten these now if you would like. In tightening these I tighten as tight as I can get them which is why I said use a T-handle allen wrench, the standard wrench just doesnt give you enough leverage. Now you can replace the other boots pull back on them and push down its not hard but when you get the technique for it, its even easier. Now inspect those boots closely for them to be seated properly. Tighten all the boots as tight as you can get them(my opinion but I have never had a carb blowoff yet). I tighten all clamps so that the clamp starts to bottom out on the spacers for all of them. If you dont have access to T-handle metric allen wrenches you can still use the standards but what i did was I took a small closed end wrench and put it around the allen wrench and used it for leverage. Now that they are all tightened inspect them again to be all seated correctly.
15. Connect the 2 bigger hoses to the carbs and the one small one to the center. Fold the cover over the carbs replace the tank connect the gas line turn on the gas. Check the float levels again to see if they are in spec now, if they are in spec tighten down the tank. Now setup the airbox however you are gonna run and take it for a ride.
I dont know if this is exact or anything and I dont know what you know so I tried to walk you through everything. Read it all first before you do anything because I might have screwed some things up. Took to long to type and didnt feel like proof reading it. Im also not saying Im 100% correct with this but I think its right.
First and foremost I would say check your float levels before you jet your fourwheeler. Search floats on here there are some good explainations on how to do this. (clear tube method) very easy to check. If they are in spec move onto jetting. If they are out of spec you will have to follow the instructions given and do it after step 11. Well I guess either way move onto the next steps here...
1. Turn fuel off and start and let run until it stalls.
2. Remove front grill (2 allen cap screws) on top, then grill pops off.
3. Remove 2 bolts from under seat, 1 bolt from under grill, 2 bolts from top of each head light bracket, 2 screw nut combos on fender brace. pull the 4 plastic pushpins(look like plasitc philips screws, i just pop them out or you can try and turn them, by popping out i mean pop the centers up and pull them out) from the gas tank cover..
4. Remove 3 bolts from tank. Remove line from tank at petcock valve use pliers or what i do is stick a flat screwdriver into the gap and pry off the petcock doesnt require much pressure. Remove tank.
5. Remove airbox lid and crankcase breather hose from snorkle.
6. You can either unscrew the rubber protector from the frame or just fold it back. I usually fold it back and snag it on the airbox somehow so it stays out of the way.
7. Remove the 2 I believe they are vacuum lines from the top of the carbs and remove the hose connected to the black swivel in the center of the 2 carbs on airbox side.
8. Loosen all 4 clamps to the carb boots(I recommend T-handle allen wrenches for this almost a must in my opinion, reason later) make sure they are very loose(I loosen them to where they are about ready to fall out of the clamp). I usually grab both airbox to carb boots and pull them off then i stick a finger in each and pull them up out of the way and then pull the carbs out.
9. Now that the carbs are out keep them right side up until you can get something to drain the remaining gas out of the carbs. I usually grab a 20oz bottle and place that black swivel male fitting from the top center airbox side of carb into the bottle and turn the carbs over nearly all the remaining gas will pour out that fitting.
10. Ok gas is out now its time to take the bowls off. BE VERY CAREFUL WITH THESE SCREWS THEY STRIP EASILY. Remove the 4 screws from each bowl. Here is something to try and break them loose by loosening motion if they do not budge that way and start to strip the scews try and reverse the process and tighten them you will here and feel a snap then they come loose freely. The reason is I believe the metal corrodes together and tighten actually helps break that bond and doesnt strip the screws in the way to get them off.
11. Now go to the hardware store and replace those screws with bolts or cap screws(allen bolts) I dont know the size some people have post the size here. All I did was I went to the metric section and picked out a nut that fit the original screws. Then found the mate in size for a small bolt. From what I have read I believe that cap screws I think thats what they are called if not excuse me would work best eventhough I used the bolts. What i had to do with the bolts is machine a 7mm sockey down around the outside to help clear the bowls when trying to tighten the socket hits the bowls and gives the false impression of being tight or that they are crossthreaded. AFTER REPLACING THE SCREWS IT WOULD BE BEST TO DO IT ONE BOWL AT A TIME. I take one apart jet it, put back together and then take the other bowl off. I do this to make sure i dont hit the other float when not working on that side and knocking it out of whack.
12. Ok now you are ready for gets the main jet is easy to identify its nearly in the center of the bowl with a collar on it. Take a regular screw driver and the correct size wrench to hold the base in place, break the jet loose. In some cases you dont need a wrench at all just use the screwdriver but if you see the entire main jet assembly spin you will need to hold the base in place. Take the jet out of the collar and put the new one in it and replace it. Now replace your pilot jet. Im assuming you already have it before you do this so just match it up to the correct jet I dont know how to explain this one other then its a longer jet and will be marked 22.5 i think. Do not overtighten the jets, just make sure they are snug.
****Left carb gets the smaller jet/Right gets the bigger jet****Hence the sayings like 165/170 L/R Left also being shifter side or this is in respect to sitting on the machine. Or keep in mind you can always look at the jets that are in there if stock its 140/145 self explanitory which one gets the bigger jet.
13. Reinstall the bowl with new screws/bolts I HOPE(An absolute MUST, sorry cant stress that enough). Reapeat steps 12 and 13 for second carb.
14. Jets are in, floats are adjusted, bowls are tightened. Now adjust your fuel screw on the bottom of the carbs (not sure what side) I think its motor side, to whatever setting you wish to use. Turn them all the way in not tight just snug then back them out to what you said you are going 2.5 turns. Reinstall the carbs once again make sure the clamps are VERY loose, push the carbs back into the intake boots bolted to the motor. Inspect them closely to make sure they are seated all the way on all the way around the carb. You can tighten these now if you would like. In tightening these I tighten as tight as I can get them which is why I said use a T-handle allen wrench, the standard wrench just doesnt give you enough leverage. Now you can replace the other boots pull back on them and push down its not hard but when you get the technique for it, its even easier. Now inspect those boots closely for them to be seated properly. Tighten all the boots as tight as you can get them(my opinion but I have never had a carb blowoff yet). I tighten all clamps so that the clamp starts to bottom out on the spacers for all of them. If you dont have access to T-handle metric allen wrenches you can still use the standards but what i did was I took a small closed end wrench and put it around the allen wrench and used it for leverage. Now that they are all tightened inspect them again to be all seated correctly.
15. Connect the 2 bigger hoses to the carbs and the one small one to the center. Fold the cover over the carbs replace the tank connect the gas line turn on the gas. Check the float levels again to see if they are in spec now, if they are in spec tighten down the tank. Now setup the airbox however you are gonna run and take it for a ride.
#6
" 165/160 2-3/4 turns & 2-1/2 turns with 25 pilots - all this with the GYT-R jet kit and all the help from sixsixt - its perfect..... live and learn. 500ft no lid, proflow foam, Yoshi full comp."
I found this on an old post. Sound like a good place to start? What is the "clip" I keep reading about?
I found this on an old post. Sound like a good place to start? What is the "clip" I keep reading about?
#7
Yeah sounds like a really good place to start but when jetting remember its 160/165 not L165/R160. And I had the other guy ask me this its not the jet you turn for the adjustment. All four jets get snugged into place the adjustment is on the bottom of the carb.
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