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connecting rod failures on 2002+ rappy's?

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Old 03-24-2004, 01:37 AM
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Default connecting rod failures on 2002+ rappy's?

Anyone had a connecting rod failure on a 2002 or 2003 raptor? The threads that I have read thus far on failures only deal with the 2001 model. I am planning to run a stage 2, 11:1 JE, kibblewhite springs, and new valves on my 2003. I wasn't planning on changing the rod with this setup unless someone else convinces me otherwise.
 
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Old 03-24-2004, 01:41 AM
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Default connecting rod failures on 2002+ rappy's?

Spend the money and then pin the throttle and forget about it
 
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Old 03-24-2004, 01:43 AM
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Default connecting rod failures on 2002+ rappy's?

The wristpins on the JE pistons seem to be the cause of many rod failures.
 
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Old 03-24-2004, 01:46 AM
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Default connecting rod failures on 2002+ rappy's?

how can the JE wristpin cause the failure and other piston wristpins be fine? doesn't make sense
 
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Old 03-24-2004, 01:51 AM
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Default connecting rod failures on 2002+ rappy's?

Stock connecting rod's are border line . The JE pistons have had numerous failures they have upgraded to longer wristpins to prevent piston failure .
Some connecting rod failure is due to piston swedging in the cyl and causing the rod to break . I wouldnt touch a JE piston . Just my personal feelings I would go with a Ross and the Ti rod rebalance the bottom and let it spin~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
 
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Old 03-24-2004, 01:54 AM
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Default connecting rod failures on 2002+ rappy's?

I'm not much on TI parts, but to each his own. My raptor will probably be running a carillo rod the next time I change the piston.
 
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Old 03-24-2004, 09:10 AM
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Default connecting rod failures on 2002+ rappy's?

If you are running a 686, then you should definetly change the stock rod. I wasn't going to, until I was convinced by the multiple forum members that expressed concern about it.

If you are staying with a stock bore 11:1, I wouldn't be real concerned. But if you have future motor mod's planned, and the cash, you should go ahead and change it now.

I'll be running a chromoly rod by B&W Industries, with Falicon crank balance and true.
 
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Old 03-24-2004, 10:30 AM
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Default connecting rod failures on 2002+ rappy's?

Originally posted by: Yamaha660R
If you are running a 686, then you should definetly change the stock rod. I wasn't going to, until I was convinced by the multiple forum members that expressed concern about it. If you are staying with a stock bore 11:1, I wouldn't be real concerned. But if you have future motor mod's planned, and the cash, you should go ahead and change it now.I'll be running a chromoly rod by B&W Industries, with Falicon crank balance and true.
The difference the stock rod sees between an 11/1 stock bore and a 686 11/1 is gonna be negligable. We have several stock bore 11/1 Raptors have rods let go on these forums. My primary concern is guys not knowing how too jet their bike and getting their top end too hot. My secondary concern is guys leaning their engine out for maximum power on the dyno. The piston is getting too hot, transferring heat too the rod, boiling oil at the rod end and then all he!! breaks loose when metal-too-metal contact occurs.
JE makes pistons for top fuel dragsters making in excess of 500 horsepower per cylinder hole......I do not believe they cannot make an atv piston. I understand there will be rare defects on occasion, but anything above that is hard too swallow from such a high end piston company.
My previous 11/1 JE (stock bore) ran great with no failures for approx a year and a half. THis is no show atv that sits in the garage between photo shoots either....it's actually rode. This piston was ran using a rich condition, a shade colder spark plug, and the top of the piston was smoothed before assembly. The stock 11/1 JE piston has some sharp edges that could lead too hot spots and possibly detonation IMO. This is common for most "pop-up", higher compression pistons regardless of application. Upon disassembly, my rod looked perfect with no blueing or discoloration. Quality, semi-sythetic or synthetic oil was always used. This engine had no cylinder top ring groove that is associated with a worn engine after approx 200 hours of use. Having said that, I have a fresh 686 with an 11/1 JE slug in my new buildup on the bench as I type this.....and using the stock rod. My set-up should be a good benchmark too test the stock rod because I know without a doubt the piston will see favorable conditions.
 
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Old 03-24-2004, 11:58 AM
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Default connecting rod failures on 2002+ rappy's?

Originally posted by: Yamaha660R
If you are running a 686, then you should definetly change the stock rod. I wasn't going to, until I was convinced by the multiple forum members that expressed concern about it.

If you are staying with a stock bore 11:1, I wouldn't be real concerned. But if you have future motor mod's planned, and the cash, you should go ahead and change it now.

I'll be running a chromoly rod by B&W Industries, with Falicon crank balance and true.

"Yes, well said", if you want to know what a stock Rod does to a 690 look at my page and check out the piston and rod, plus it went thru the case.

Mine is a 2002 model.
 
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Old 03-24-2004, 12:04 PM
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Default connecting rod failures on 2002+ rappy's?

Originally posted by: garyc660R
Originally posted by: Yamaha660R
If you are running a 686, then you should definetly change the stock rod. I wasn't going to, until I was convinced by the multiple forum members that expressed concern about it. If you are staying with a stock bore 11:1, I wouldn't be real concerned. But if you have future motor mod's planned, and the cash, you should go ahead and change it now.I'll be running a chromoly rod by B&W Industries, with Falicon crank balance and true.
The difference the stock rod sees between an 11/1 stock bore and a 686 11/1 is gonna be negligable. We have several stock bore 11/1 Raptors have rods let go on these forums. My primary concern is guys not knowing how too jet their bike and getting their top end too hot. My secondary concern is guys leaning their engine out for maximum power on the dyno. The piston is getting too hot, transferring heat too the rod, boiling oil at the rod end and then all he!! breaks loose when metal-too-metal contact occurs.
JE makes pistons for top fuel dragsters making in excess of 500 horsepower per cylinder hole......I do not believe they cannot make an atv piston. I understand there will be rare defects on occasion, but anything above that is hard too swallow from such a high end piston company.
My previous 11/1 JE (stock bore) ran great with no failures for approx a year and a half. THis is no show atv that sits in the garage between photo shoots either....it's actually rode. This piston was ran using a rich condition, a shade colder spark plug, and the top of the piston was smoothed before assembly. The stock 11/1 JE piston has some sharp edges that could lead too hot spots and possibly detonation IMO. This is common for most "pop-up", higher compression pistons regardless of application. Upon disassembly, my rod looked perfect with no blueing or discoloration. Quality, semi-sythetic or synthetic oil was always used. This engine had no cylinder top ring groove that is associated with a worn engine after approx 200 hours of use. Having said that, I have a fresh 686 with an 11/1 JE slug in my new buildup on the bench as I type this.....and using the stock rod. My set-up should be a good benchmark too test the stock rod because I know without a doubt the piston will see favorable conditions.

I hope you dont run into my situation cuz its costly! JMO - My bike was setup by Sparks and doubt it was running hot at all. My fan never came on and the bike has always ran cool after the 690 kit. The cylinder walls were like they were just honed out and this has been running for almost 8 months hard riding too. If you look at the stock Rod you will see the oil holes at the top end, thats where the weak spot is becuase thats where my rod broke in three pieces. Now look at the Carrillo Rod, the braces cover the weak hole spots. If you ask me, I think that is way better than the stock and I would be scared not to put in an aftermarket rod when my new one is built.
 


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