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JUST BOUGHT A BRAND NEW 2004 BANSHEE!

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  #21  
Old 04-28-2004, 03:13 AM
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Default JUST BOUGHT A BRAND NEW 2004 BANSHEE!

what color ? i have only had mine about a month and a half and love it think you will to
 
  #22  
Old 04-28-2004, 04:04 AM
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Default JUST BOUGHT A BRAND NEW 2004 BANSHEE!

I got a blue one, i heard the black ones scuff too easy and red just isnt my thing. So blue it is, ill put pics up asap.
 
  #23  
Old 04-28-2004, 08:10 AM
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Default JUST BOUGHT A BRAND NEW 2004 BANSHEE!

Yea black scuffs, but with amoral, wd40, or silicone on it it looks brand new. But blue gets really bad stress marks. carefull not to bend the plastic or you'll get them.
 
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Old 04-28-2004, 11:00 AM
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Default JUST BOUGHT A BRAND NEW 2004 BANSHEE!

cool thing about banshee's is the fact that the sky is the limit when it comes to modding them out....hope you have a deep pocket cause once you start modding you'll never stop
 
  #25  
Old 04-28-2004, 12:49 PM
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Default JUST BOUGHT A BRAND NEW 2004 BANSHEE!

Congrats on the banshee man! Hope you love it!
 
  #26  
Old 04-28-2004, 01:05 PM
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Default JUST BOUGHT A BRAND NEW 2004 BANSHEE!

Originally posted by: 2004LEBANSHEE
Originally posted by: Devin246
why cant i run synthetic? I plan on getting pipes and an airfilter in the first couple weeks here.

Why cant you run it yet? This is beacuse synthethic oil is very slipery. This is good when the engine is broken in but not new. The reason is you break in your engine rich with natural oil to give your rings a chance to seet properly. If this isn't done correctly you'll shorten your engine life and not allow that shee to produce full power. Take shee breakin seriously and do it correctly. A banshee will really come to life after about 3-4 tanks are ran through properly. There will be a noticible difference.

As for the K&N I run it and love it, but I run with an out wearer on and with part of the lid on. However I cut the last 1 1/4" of the lid. Or up to the last set of clips. I gutted the underside of the lid, and I also took the snorkle off. If you do that and run a outware it is a great set up. HOWEVER you better take care of the filter. I clean the outwearer every ride and K&N every few or when it needs it. If your lazy get a foam filter. BUt either way get a billet adaptor plate or scilicone and screw the stock filter holder to the front of the air box.

NOw to the Fatty's. They are a excellent pipe. Great low end to top. More of a mid pipe. I feel there the best FMF for this reason. They respond great to mods. They LOVE to be on ported engines and stock engines alike. Where as sst's are good for stock but preform poorly on ported or modded engines. Gnarleys are same as fattys but different name. Maybe a lil lower end????? As for sound if you want loud get PCII's for quiet I beileve turbine core??? I dunno I like it when shee screams.
I heard this as well, yet when I went to a Lube course for work from the Esso/Mobil reps, they were telling me the most important thing is to dump the oil in the machine<be it a car or whatever from the factory> aasap after pulling it off the lot. This being that there is an extremely high concentration of silicates<sand> in the oil from the factory. They believe this is done to increase the rate of wear in the engine to promote a faster breakin phase to reduce warrenty problems from people being too hard on the engine when it isn't ready for the stress that customers apply too early due to the engine needing a longer breakin period. They said that they recommend running synthetics from day one, right out the showroom door. I asked if the wear is important or necessary from the start, they said no, that it ends up being more damaging and reduces the life span of the engine. They recommend still breaking in the engine and what not, but just to get rid of the oil in the cases from the factory ASAP. They showed us tests done from their vehicles they first bought ranging from many manufacturer's and what not, some being much higher in concentrations of silicates than others. They <Esso/Mobil> recommended running synthetic from day one and that's what I plan on doing, but just giving it a longer break in phase to compensate for it. They said they found less particulates<metal particles> within the drained oil this way, but in a more consistant slower rate which they explain is alot easier on the rest of the engine since those metal particles were alot easier for the filter to catch rather to be transferred to the rest of the engine creating more faster wear on the gears, oil pump, and the rest of the engine to promote better fuel efficiency earlier by promoting the break in phase quicker. So what it comes down to, is that the engine will break in faster, but there's chances it may acutally do more damage than good by doing so earlier rather than down the road. Either way, they said what's most important is to DUMP the oil that's in the machine as you bought it from the manufaturer as soon as you can, wether or not you choose to run synthetic or not, it is up to you. On my sled, I had synthetic in the pre-mix, and 1 extra litre of reg oil mix in with gas in my 12 gallon tank whatever that equates to? So it's fine whatever route you go to, but on your 2 stroke, I'd say dump the tranny oil ASAP, and run whatever oil you choose from day one, but be it synthetic, maybe double your break in time as a result. If you buy a 4 stroke, it's more important to definitely dump your oil right away, and run whichever type of oil you choose following the same principle for break in on the oil that will be coating your piston/s. I tend to believe these guys the most since they are the ones that make the oil, and know what's best for engines. They said that the wrong oils can be just as damaging to a bearing/engine due to the fact it can create too much friction if it wasn't designed for that stress/temperature range as well. So running the right weights are really important as well. Hope that info helps some, but just remember to dump any oil out of any machine you get from the dealerships, does more damage than good.
 
  #27  
Old 04-28-2004, 02:55 PM
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Default JUST BOUGHT A BRAND NEW 2004 BANSHEE!

Thank you for the long post that was very helpfull i think ill run synthetic off the bat.
 
  #28  
Old 04-28-2004, 04:24 PM
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Default JUST BOUGHT A BRAND NEW 2004 BANSHEE!

I was talking about non synthetic premix for first few tanks. They only give you like one gallon of mixed gas when you buy it. Here you want the rings to seet. As for the case I only run bellray 80wt. Been doing it from day one. But guess what ever you wanna do.
 
  #29  
Old 04-28-2004, 04:28 PM
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Default JUST BOUGHT A BRAND NEW 2004 BANSHEE!

so you are saying as soon as u get the fourwheeler home...dump the oil out of the tranny and the gas tank....and use ur synthetic from day one?
 
  #30  
Old 04-28-2004, 04:32 PM
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Default JUST BOUGHT A BRAND NEW 2004 BANSHEE!

Originally posted by: Devin246
no airbox lid? thats weird but sounds like it works good. The reasons i picked a banshee over a raptor are.
1. Lighter
2. More power
3. I think they look better
4. Have a friend that knows how to do everything except motor work
5. I LOVE the smell of gas/oil mix burning [img]i/expressions/face-icon-small-smile.gif[/img]
6. Not as big, a small quad seems like it would be easier to manuver
7. They run at a higher rpm which sounds cool [img]i/expressions/face-icon-small-smile.gif[/img]

8. mutch mutch more mods
9. wont flip coming out of a corner or wont wheelie when u dont want it to
10. god its a 2 stroke....

there now u have a list of 10
 


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