Hey guys, I came home with a 94' Yamaha 200 blaster today that i bought off of a guy, that bought it off of another, guy that bought.....you know the story!!! Anyhow. The guy that had it before me bored it out put a wiseco piston, new rings, performance pipe etc. on it. when he went to start it, he had no fire. He replaced every electronic component on the ignition system, and still no luck. After having $1,400 into the motor, and new plastic, he sold it to me for a song and a dance out of desparation. The wiring is all hacked up, and i cant make heads or tails out of it. Even looking at the diagram is a waste of time at this point. Does anybody know of a simple way to wire this thing up, bypassing all un-needed switches/modules just so i can see what is happening. The guy before me ditched the carb switch and the throttle switch, but im not really sure how to wire around those. I am used to working on complex automotive ignition systems, and this simple little system has me puzzled!!!! I think it has to do with the fact that it has no battery!! I have mucho mucho mechanic experience, but just not much having to do with small engines (especially 2 cycle at that)!!

Cliffs notes I need a fool proof way to wire up the ignition/coil to test my ignition system or get the thing running. Amybody up for the task?

Thanks in advance, John..........

 

if i were you id probably bring it to the dealer... maybe ur the type that would rather figure it out urself for some reason tho? but anyways thats what i would probably do

 

Yes i would rather reapair it myself instead of paying a rediculous price for a brand new harness and tons of parts i didnt really need.

 

Ok, So looking at the diagram.... It looks like the switches supply ground to the blk/wht wire. So if i am removing all the switches, then i just need to ground the blk/wht wire on the CDI box right?

 

I'm looking at the same diagram. The tors switches can just be unplugged. I would keep the light switch for the high low beam control.

you should check you ignition coil with an ohm meter. (using spark plug lead and orange wire off coil.)

Primary resistance should be 1.44 ~ 1.76 ohms
Secondary resistance should be 5.28 ~ 7.92 ohms

Spark plug cap should have 4 ~ 6Kohms

The engine stop and main switch are the b / bw leads for each switch. In the run position there should be no continuity. So the last thing your going to want to do is ground those wires if you remove the engine stop.

You can test the source coil B/R+ and B- . The resistance should be 192 ~ 288ohms

I don't know if any of this will help you...but it will narrow down problems with each individual circuit.

 

You can just buy a used wiring harness on ebay and replace everything. Start over from scratch. Here is one:

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eB...sPageName=WDVW

Good Luck.

RR1

 

Not really sure what you are saying here...


All the coils (pickup, stator, iginition etc.) have been replaced with new. I just got a used harness of of ebay, but i dont think that is my problem. I really think the problem lays behind the flywheel somewhere.

 

I re-ohmed the stator coils tonight after putting it all back together yesterday. The pulse coil ohmed out at 20 ohms. The manual says it needs to be at 75 or more. Is this a problem, or user error? I have the old coils that the previouse owner took off so if this is a problem, i can try swapping them back out.....

 

I don't know if this will help you or not, but....
Recently I ran into a similar problem on my fathers Beartracker - everything ohm'd out OK (the pulse coil was a little lower than spec's) but could get no fire. Replaced the CDI box, still no fire. Found a post on another forum related to this, and they said to try push starting it - hooked it behind one of my quads and drug it around about 2 minutes and it started firing again - this was 3 weeks ago and it has not quit firing since - and he uses it 3-4 times a day

 

I talked to a small engine mechanic today. I said that the pulse coil is definately bad. It should not Ohm at 20....this is a brand new one mind you! I ohmed the old one that came off of the bike, and it ohmed at 20 also. Looks like a(nother) new pulse coil is in order. I wonder what could be causing them to go out?