Origionally I posted asking how to do it:

http://forums.atvconnection.com/mess...ighlight_key=y

No one seemed to be able to help.


Well I was able to answer my own question and then some. I figured I would post a quick how-to to save someone else a little trouble. Eventually this should be indexed by Google and may actually help someone.

Valve adjustment for a 2001 Beartracker.

I am sure it will apply to other years, 1999 up I would guess. I would also guess the older Timberwolf could use almost the same, if not exactly the same, procedure. In the Timberwolf case the clearances may be different. Once I tore into it I found the actual clearances listed on a sticker under the seat. I would double check there to make sure your quad uses the same numbers.

Be warned!!! I make no guarantee of anything. If your quad takes a dump it is on you!!!

Here it is, quick, dirty, and paraphrased.

Place on the quad on level ground.

The engine has to be cold, stone cold.

I would also suggest you make sure it is in neutral with the wheels blocked. I pulled the plug as well. It makes turning the motor easier plus it does not tend to want to bump over at the top of the compression stroke (TDC) while you are trying to locate the timing mark. This is a good time to swap in a new plug!

Remove the seat and the fuel tank. To pull the tank you have to pull the front plastic, which means you have to pull the front rack. A little bit of a pain but you kind of need the space.

Locate the timing plug. It is right behind the pivot point for the Forward/Reverse shifter. Its about an inch wide and is removed with an allen wrench.

Remove the plug.

Remove the recoil starter. 6 bolts around its cover.

Remove the tappet covers. When looking at the spark plug the exhaust is on the right, the intake on the left. In other words, the exhaust is toward the front of the quad, where the exhaust exists. The intake is on the other side facing the carb. Pay attention to the side the cover comes from and the orientation of each cover.

Turn the crankshaft counterclockwise via the nut exposed after the recoil starter is removed. Looking into the timing hole (hole from which the plug was removed). I was told to align the “T” mark on the flywheel with the stationary pointer. The stationary pointer, as I was told, is a grove cut into the case. On my quad the only mark on the flywheel was a straight line cut across the crank. I saw no mark on the case. I simply centered the mark in the inspection hole.

This will bring the piston to TDC. To makes sure it is on the compression stroke both rockers must be up (valve closed). If you rotate the engine a couple of times you will see the valves actuate. The stroke you are in is pretty easy to figure out. They will have some clearance off of the valve. If they are not correct turn the motor one revolution counterclockwise and check again.

Measure with clearance between the top of the valve stem and the rocker tip.
Intake 0.05~0.09 mm (0.002~0.004 in)
Exhaust 0.11~0.15 mm (0.004~0.006 in)

If they are out of range then you need to adjust them.

Loosen the locknut.

While using a feeler gauge to measure turn the adjuster until you get the clearance within range.
Tighten the locknut. The torque spec is 14Nm (10 ft/lb). good luck unless the engine is out of the frame. I just snuged it down.

I would then recheck the clearances to make sure the adjuster did not move. It took me a couple of swings at it to 0 it in.

Reinstall the tappet covers assuring the correct orientation.

The tappet covers bolts torque to 10 Nm (7.2 ft/lb). Again, good luck unless the engine is out of the frame. I just snuged them down.

Reinstall the parts removed. Timing plug, seat, fuel tank, spark plug, fenders, muffler bearings, etc.

Once again, this procedure is used at your own risk.