No problem. This place is for questions.

Actually, the proflow is only the name of the billet part that attaches the filter to the airbox. If you are handy with machining, it is something that you could probably make. There is a member of the forum sixsixt that actually makes the billet part and you only have to buy the filter of your choice, but this one does away with the airbox. It's the same principle though. You can send him a pm about it if you are interested. Not sure of the price, but I'm sure it's cheaper than the proflow brand. If not, I bought mine for $125.00 from Rocky mountain atv (1-800-336-5437). Their website is www.rockymountainatv.com, and I'm sure they have a pic of it on the website.

Also, it doesn't take a rocket scientist to jet it. The hardest part is to take the plastic off. After that, pull the tank and carbs off. Flip it over and unscrew the bowls. The mains are the one that is in the center that sticks out from the rest of the carb. It says the jet number on the jet itself. Unscrew it and screw the new one in without gouging it up. They are two different sizes, so remember what one goes on what side. They are easy to strip out, so make sure the screwdriver fits in good. When I got mine out, I put some stainless boltheads in it. There are two airfuel adjustments, one on each carb. When you get it back together, you can adjust on them. Make sure not to bump the bowls, cuz they are a pain to readjust. On the top of the carbs, there is two black and round caps, unscrew those and the needle is in there. Easy to take apart, but make sure you remember how it goes back together and watch the small springs. If they fly out, you're screwed. When I'm done, I ride it with the plastic off till I get it right, then put all that stuff on, just don't lose any bolts. Email or IM me and I will fill you in on something else that may help. Chevy181@aol.com.

Also, the jets are usually about 2 -3 dollars a piece.

 

I bought the DynoJet stage two complete kit with needles and the whole ten yards.

My friend just bought the jets, and he has a K&N filter, full FMF titanium4 exhaust, and I have the DJ stage 2 kit, yoshi slip-on and K&N filter, and his power gains don't even compare to mine, for some reason I can blow him out of the water in straight drags, and the torque is considerably different.


I added the needles, which are thinner then stock, and the springs. I'd say order a kit, DJ or not, they usually have recommended jet sizes to run and with a little fine tuning you'll get it right.

 

I have an '03 Raptor. I used the 150 and 155 jets, and also moved the clips on the needles to the 4th position. Then turn the air/fuel mixture screw in until its lightly seated, then turn out about 1 1/2 turns....might need to be adjusted, but should be in the ballpark.

 

well i got it all jetted a lot easier than i thought. now i put it all together and did not turn the air/fuel screw am i able to get to that or do i need to take the carb off again? and where exactly is the screw at and to sound really dumb is there a screw for both sides or one screw for both? and thanks for walking me through this process

 

you can get to the air/fuel screw without taking the carb off again. it is a little difficult because of the small space. i went out and bought these small finger screw drivers so that it would be a little easier. the screw is on the bottom of the carb, towards the front of the quad. there are 2 different screws, one for each carb. you should be able to see a small hole in the bottom of the carb, which is where the air/fuel mixture screws are located.

 

thanks i will check it out did you get those screw drivers from autozone or sears or did you have to get them from online?

 

i went out and looked at the carb and there is 2 holes like tubes for each carb an outbrd and inbrd on the forward side of the carb. Is that where the air/fuel screw is up in one of those holes if so which one or am I totally in the wrong place.

 

i actually got the screwdrivers at sears. yes you are looking in exactly the right spot for the screw...it is the screw that is more centered on the carb, i believe that it should be the one with a longer "tube" type casing.

 

thanks guys ended up just taking the carb off could only get one screw the one on the right side of the bike. tightened them up and went back 1 1/2 turns the bike runs awesome no backfiring no stalling no loss of power. is there any other way that you would know that things were not running right? and thanks for helping me get this done. and if anyone is into racing sportbikes and wants any info on those i would be able to help out.