Raptor Rod Failure with Synthetic Oil
#11
Originally posted by: MasterRaptor
I read on these forums that just about all Raptors show wear on the wrist pin and rod on the right side after some use. I was thinking this is what causes them to fail.
I read on these forums that just about all Raptors show wear on the wrist pin and rod on the right side after some use. I was thinking this is what causes them to fail.
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#12
MasterRaptor to many top engine builders I know stay away from them. There is a reason for that!
The stock Raptor rod that came out of my engine looked good but once measured it was .005 out of round and half of the wrist pin area had gawlding marks. It was a 12:1 JE piston (stock bore) and a stage two Hot Cams. I only ran that combo for about six months with maybe 10 hour on it..........
The stock Raptor rod that came out of my engine looked good but once measured it was .005 out of round and half of the wrist pin area had gawlding marks. It was a 12:1 JE piston (stock bore) and a stage two Hot Cams. I only ran that combo for about six months with maybe 10 hour on it..........
#14
I ran the ***** off my CR686, high compression and stock rod. It had about 40 gallons of fuel (MX) through it when I sold it to a guy that used it for XC racing. I used synthetic oil, Mobil 1 and Amsoil. Maybe I got lucky?
#15
Could detonation cause some of these failures? Maybe from not using high enough grade of fuel. I know for a fact that some gas stations premium fuel is a mix of whatever fuel the tanker puts in there. (Chevron, too guys) Alot of times the 93 octane is diluted down.
#16
I am also wondering why adding a high comp piston or larger bore causes it to fail. Is the difference in the two pistons that much different from stock? Or is it the higher load on the rod from the increased performance?
Now, your piston is going, what; 50, 100,? times the speed of your hand?? That's what pulls rods in half. Rods fail on extention, not compression. That's why you want the lightest piston you can get if you buzz the bajesus out of your engine. The higher the RPM, the more stress the rod see's.
So you can see if you put a high compression piston (heavy) in your quad and want to buzz it up to make more HP, you are going to have some problems with a weak rod from the factory.
#17
UBETRUN, I love the way your Raptor looks, like a mini pro street ready for flight![img]i/expressions/face-icon-small-wink.gif[/img]
XxDumontRaptorxX this is my only experience with the stock rod, and whos to say it was not already distorted when I bought the raptor! I have since then built two other 686 for friends of mine using stock rods in both and they are still running fine. Sorry did not mean to scare anyone.
XxDumontRaptorxX this is my only experience with the stock rod, and whos to say it was not already distorted when I bought the raptor! I have since then built two other 686 for friends of mine using stock rods in both and they are still running fine. Sorry did not mean to scare anyone.
#18
Synthetics are superior lubricants compared to traditional petroleum oils. So to blame the failure on the oil is probably a little unfair to say the least. Sounds like Yamaha may have a little engineering redesigning to do on the Raptor rods. I've got an 89 Warrior that has always run synthetic oil and it has never been rebuilt, doesn't leak oil, doesn't burn oil, and never have to add oil between changes. So that has to say something for synthetics or the engineering of the Warrior motor, or both!
#19
Originally posted by: Doctorturbo
In a domed piston case and larger bore it is the added weight of the piston. Even a few extra grams can cause problems in this area.
I am also wondering why adding a high comp piston or larger bore causes it to fail. Is the difference in the two pistons that much different from stock? Or is it the higher load on the rod from the increased performance?
The JE pistons and others must be heavier than stock?
#20
Originally posted by: RaptorOwner
If you look at my page you will see what happened to mine and after checking out a few others, I have found that they break where the oil holes are on the ROD itself. There were no heat signs at all and the wrist pin was still intacked. Look at an aftermarket Rod compared to the OEM one. You will see that the aftermarket one does not have the holes in the same place. More compression on a stock Rod will break it eventually.
If you look at my page you will see what happened to mine and after checking out a few others, I have found that they break where the oil holes are on the ROD itself. There were no heat signs at all and the wrist pin was still intacked. Look at an aftermarket Rod compared to the OEM one. You will see that the aftermarket one does not have the holes in the same place. More compression on a stock Rod will break it eventually.
Were you hauln' A$$ when you're engine grenaded? Or were you on a Sunday drive?


