Just got my CT Racing pipes in. I should have came with a clamp to snug down the rear muffler section to the header piece right ??? I didnt get one !!! I think this is obvious as it also doesnt appear the stock clamp is big enough ... right ??? Just trying to continue the install tonight ...

Boy, oh boy .... I got three orders in today from different vendors and looks like all three are screwed up in one way or another .... just my luck !!!!

 

Dont remember any clamps with my pipe, nor the need for any. I didnt reuse any stock clamps either, just left it without a clamp.

 

Huuummm ... finished piecing it together and that rear piece sure seems like a loose fit to not require a clamp to create a "seal" between the two pipes ... maybe this is where they gain some power though [img]i/expressions/face-icon-small-wink.gif[/img] ...

My DMC pipes for my KFX700 had a clamp in the equivalent area also .... guess will see if anyone else chimes in here or wait till tomorrow and verify with CT ... thanks ...

 

I thought the same as you. So I used a heavy duty radiator hose clamp on mine.

 

I didn't get a clamp with mine. I have had other problems (use locktight on the spark arrestor bolts if you want to keep them) but not with a leak.

 

I've removed and reinserted the disc bolts about a dozen times and never had a problem with any of them wiggling out on me. The heads are soft though so if you plan on changing the discs much you may want to replace the bolts with harder ones.

 

I am talking about the three bolts that actually hold the spark arrestor in, not the ones on the end cap, I have never had problems w/ those. Also do you know if removing disks will affect power in any way? More disc=more power I think, but is there a # of discs for hill climbing compared to say trail riding?

 

More discs = more power, to a point. CT tested the bikes and found 16 discs produced the most peak power and most desireable powerband. Removing discs will drop overall and peak power but it would create a flatter hp and torque curve, also to a point.

I havent had any problems with those bolts at all, but getting the headers seated was a pain.

 

Well, I did get a chance to call CT and they said that indeed no clamp is included/needed. They said once it heats up it seals itself. I asked if it has to seal itself each time it cools off again and they said over time it pretty much creates a permanent seal itself. They said there really isnt an easy way to use a clamp in the position they come together and by the time you groove the pipe for the clamp to stay for sure it just doesnt make much sense. I might still put a clamp on for the heck of it to see if I can get it to seal (make it fit tight to the other pipe atleast) with the clamp before heating it up and not have to think about it again though ... I guess its whatever makes you feel comfortable as apparently it works fine without one as I dont see anyone complaining ... except me [img]i/expressions/face-icon-small-wink.gif[/img]. CT did just switch to stainless only last week so I guess thats a variable I didnt ask much about ... they say its stronger but I dont know if stainless would be less or more likely to create a seal than whatever they were using before ... also, if stainless is stronger then I assume it makes it harder for a clamp to bend it to create the seal that way ... dont know ... just thinking out loud here ...

 

Yep, tried it and as suspected above a clamp does no good ... the stainless is too strong and a clamp does nothing ...