dura blue spacers???
#11
12-17-2004, 10:27 PM
Join Date: Oct 2004
Posts: 191
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
dura blue spacers???
Originally posted by: nitrotmann
With our style of jumping they'll work just fine. You can always upgrade later and use them on the warrior.
With our style of jumping they'll work just fine. You can always upgrade later and use them on the warrior.
[img]i/expressions/face-icon-small-shocked.gif[/img] LMFAO
#13
12-20-2004, 09:13 PM
#15
12-21-2004, 08:47 AM
#16
12-21-2004, 03:40 PM
#17
12-21-2004, 04:22 PM
#18
12-21-2004, 05:58 PM
dura blue spacers???
IMO...Been there done that...
I would not recommend spacers on the front. If you are on anything put smooth terrain, you will get ground feed back into the handle bars. This will cause you to ride with your fists clinched. Also, you will bend tie rods if you hit rocks. Also, your front wheels will swing instead of pivot when steering. This increases steering effort. Adds major fatigue when riding.
The front susupension is set up such that if you draw a line between the upper and lower ball joints it intersects at the center where your front tire touches the ground. This is hosed if you add spacers to the front.
To top it off, it doesn't do that much for stablity anyway. The bike will still sway just as much in the turns. It will only help in loss of control situations to keep you on all fours.
The ones on the back make a huge difference for handling stablity in turns.
If you buy ones for the front, you will probably take them off after a few rides.
You could always put 'em on ebay if you don't like 'em I guess.
I have been thru this. I thought I would share....
I would not recommend spacers on the front. If you are on anything put smooth terrain, you will get ground feed back into the handle bars. This will cause you to ride with your fists clinched. Also, you will bend tie rods if you hit rocks. Also, your front wheels will swing instead of pivot when steering. This increases steering effort. Adds major fatigue when riding.
The front susupension is set up such that if you draw a line between the upper and lower ball joints it intersects at the center where your front tire touches the ground. This is hosed if you add spacers to the front.
To top it off, it doesn't do that much for stablity anyway. The bike will still sway just as much in the turns. It will only help in loss of control situations to keep you on all fours.
The ones on the back make a huge difference for handling stablity in turns.
If you buy ones for the front, you will probably take them off after a few rides.
You could always put 'em on ebay if you don't like 'em I guess.
I have been thru this. I thought I would share....
#19
12-21-2004, 06:08 PM
dura blue spacers???
I've got the 1.5's in the front, and the 2.5's in the rear and I ride on the roughest terrain possiable and have yet to bend, break, twist, or snap anything....And I ride them hard too. You get some bump steer heppening but it's nothing big. I noticed it at first but now I can't even tell anymore it just feels natural. Like I said before, I recently took mine off and noticed that they were in perfect condition and I hit all kinds of jumps. I even got into a high speed accident and they, nor were the tie rods or anything else damaged.
MasterRaptor, I donno what your talking about, do you have any experience with spacers...at all?
How can you say that adding width to the front end dosn't help stability? Sure it might not handle as well but its common knowledge that width=stability, hence the whole idea behind training wheels.
Like you said, it will throw off the KPI a bit, but if you have ever taken the time to measure it dosn't line up anyway. The whole Idea of KPI (kingpin Inclination) has to do with highway vehicles and dosn't affect off highway vehicles at all really. Have you ever noticed that after making a turn in a car or truck when you let go of the wheel it turns back to center? This has to do with KPI and camber, which is what causes the wheels to center out after a turn, again not doing much for ATV's. By widing the front the only thing you will experience is tire scuff, which will result in a little more steering effort and bump steer, which comes from changing your KPI..
Shav0
MasterRaptor, I donno what your talking about, do you have any experience with spacers...at all?
How can you say that adding width to the front end dosn't help stability? Sure it might not handle as well but its common knowledge that width=stability, hence the whole idea behind training wheels.
Like you said, it will throw off the KPI a bit, but if you have ever taken the time to measure it dosn't line up anyway. The whole Idea of KPI (kingpin Inclination) has to do with highway vehicles and dosn't affect off highway vehicles at all really. Have you ever noticed that after making a turn in a car or truck when you let go of the wheel it turns back to center? This has to do with KPI and camber, which is what causes the wheels to center out after a turn, again not doing much for ATV's. By widing the front the only thing you will experience is tire scuff, which will result in a little more steering effort and bump steer, which comes from changing your KPI..
Shav0
#20
12-21-2004, 06:44 PM
dura blue spacers???
Actually, KPI has noting to do with the wheels coming back to center. It's all caster angle.
Camber is how much your wheels lean in toward the bike. That is unrelated here.
KPI is stictly so your front wheels pivot instead of swing. And it does make a diffence on and off road vehicle. If you take an impact on one front tire, the force if the impact will be absorbed by the king pin if your offset is correct. If your off set is incorrect, to transfer the force into the tie rods which you feel in your handlebars.
We ride in the rocky dessert here which is it full of impacts. It may not be a big deal for you people in Canuckville. I have broken tie rod ends and noodle shaped tie rods to proove it from my front spacer days.
As far as stablity, width equals stablity if you have no suspension. But you do on a Raptor. The problem is the raptor lifting its inside rear wheel in a turn. The spacer on the front does nothing for this because it is the give of the front suspension causing the sway. You get no handling stablity with front spacers. All you get is a higher lateral G in a turn before it flips over.
The rear axle does the most in a hard turn for flatness because it doesn't allow sway. Especially if you are powered up in a turn. You will see a big difference by adding spacers to the back not the front.
When I took them off the front of my bike, I saw no difference in handling stablity. Just way better steering and control.
Camber is how much your wheels lean in toward the bike. That is unrelated here.
KPI is stictly so your front wheels pivot instead of swing. And it does make a diffence on and off road vehicle. If you take an impact on one front tire, the force if the impact will be absorbed by the king pin if your offset is correct. If your off set is incorrect, to transfer the force into the tie rods which you feel in your handlebars.
We ride in the rocky dessert here which is it full of impacts. It may not be a big deal for you people in Canuckville. I have broken tie rod ends and noodle shaped tie rods to proove it from my front spacer days.
As far as stablity, width equals stablity if you have no suspension. But you do on a Raptor. The problem is the raptor lifting its inside rear wheel in a turn. The spacer on the front does nothing for this because it is the give of the front suspension causing the sway. You get no handling stablity with front spacers. All you get is a higher lateral G in a turn before it flips over.
The rear axle does the most in a hard turn for flatness because it doesn't allow sway. Especially if you are powered up in a turn. You will see a big difference by adding spacers to the back not the front.
When I took them off the front of my bike, I saw no difference in handling stablity. Just way better steering and control.