Have a little faith.
If he can read 5th grade english and has a Clymer manual, he can fix it himself (or at least disassemble it for repair). Its a little difficult to diagnose something you can't be there to check out yourself no matter how good you or I may be...

He's thinking he has a crankcase full of fuel, causing a hydraulic lock. I don't think so (that's a lot of gas). If one piston goes down and one goes up, they are displacing the same volume. Something is siezed. What, I don't know yet.

There are no silver bullets, just sound diagnosis and alot of patience.

 

We need a few more patience people like you on the fourms. Even if there was that much fuel in the crank case he should be able to move the pistons slightly. And your right its hard to tell whats wrong over the internet.

 

ok well is there a drain plug so we could drain out the crank case? we have a clymer its just out in the shed and its snowing and we'll get it when we get serious to quiet serious. that and the air that went into the chamber was cold air and he was going fast so the gas coulda filled up quick. do you think that the blast of cold air could have made something break or warp or bend? We need to get this pig running ASAP because its starting to get warm and its gunna be that time of the year again. saturday is the day we perform surgery so it would be nice not to have to many surprises

 

You will find the drain plug on the bottom of the engine. It shouldn't be more than three quarts at most.
A blast of cold air would not do anything; its warmed when it enters a running engine.

I hope that the problem with the poor thing is not serious. Take it one step at a time and read the book before taking it apart any further. Its not brain surgery, and if you follow the steps, its kind of fun knowing you're doing it yourself (and saving $65 per hour for a tech).

Drain the oil and smell it. If its runny and smells like gas, your problem was with the carburetor float level running over (don't know why it would even run like that). Look closely at the oil for anything sparkly that would indicate metal-to-metal contact (this is bad). After the oil is drained, there should be no reason the engine won't turn with the kicker, or in gear (pushed) unless something else is wrong. Be prepared to pull the jug off if this is the case. Pulling the jug will let you get a good look at the rings and pistons, and give you another opportunity to see down into the bottom of the engine with a flashlight.

As far as engines go, this little engine is not too complicated nor expensive to fix. There are lots of parts out there in the wrecking yards if parts are needed. The only thing to watch for is to not force anything, pay attention to the order in which things come off, and be real clean going back together. If you get rushed or frustrated, take a break.

 

Hey guys thanks for some of the advice i havn't been able to get on here to much my job really makes things busy and tough it's hard being pimp now adays cops all over hoes just acting up, its alot of work slapping a hoe, but yeah thanks for that advice

 

haha sweet deal u pimp, but where is the drain plug located on the motor to drain out the bottom half. I know where the trans one is but you mentioned one about the whole bottom half or what ever. please tell me where im hoping its just hydro locked thanks for all the help

 

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