Alright, I'm having difficulties with my new clutch. I have an 02 with a completely stock engine. The clutch was going, so I bought the GYT-R plates and springs only, not the basket or pressure plate. Anyways... I put the plates in and put it all back together.

The first time, I didn't have the pull lever shaft lined up with the pull rod. So I took it all apart to line those two up. I also didn't have the pressure plate lined up with the clutch boss, so I had to correct that as well. Now it's all back together, and it's still not right.

The cable was not disengaging the clutch completely because when I pulled the lever in and kicked it into gear, the bike would slowly roll forward. After completely adjusting the cable to its extremes, it was still not enough to fully disengage the clutch. Then I realized that I could remove the retension bolt for the pull shaft, lift it up and turn it to re-align it with the pull rod. I rotated it away from the front of the bike (counter-clockwise) and tried again by adjusting the cable. Now it's much closer to fully disengaging the clutch, but it still rolls slightly when in gear with the lever in. The cable is again at its extremes and I hardly have any adjustment left. Something doesn't seem right and I'm not sure what to try now. Any suggestions?

 

Maybe the cable is streched enough to not disengage the clutch in completly? I know that whe I change my clutch next week, I'll be replacing the cable as well. Its already been 2yrs with that cable and I never lubed it, so it must be on its way out and its better to change it while Im messing with the clutch. The cable is ony $15-20 so its not a big deal either [img]i/expressions/face-icon-small-cool.gif[/img]

 

i modded the clutch cable bracket that is on the motor to get more adjustment, you should have a little slop on your clutch handle when its fully engaged.

 

You should be able to fit a nickle between the clutch perch and lever when the clutch is fully enganged (not pulling on the clutch lever). Ive always used that method and has always worked for me [img]i/expressions/face-icon-small-smile.gif[/img]

 

The cable is brand new.

I understand the concepts of adjusting a clutch cable as I have owned several quads in the past. If I could modify the bracket to allow the cable to pull the shaft further it would probably help the situation, but it seems to me I should not have to do this. I have adjusted the cable at the bracket on the motor as far as it will go, and still it is not fully disengaging the clutch.

Maybe I should try explaining it all again.

If I backed the adjustment off to allow for the intended "slop" in the lever, the lever/cable would not pull far enough to completely disengage the clutch. So I have drawn the cable as taught as it will go, and still when I put the bike in gear the clutch is not disengaged.

With the motor off, the bike in first gear, I have the cable taught and pull the lever in. With the lever all the way against the handle bar, the bike will not free-roll in gear. The clutch is still grabbing. What gives?

I think I'm going to try adjusting the pull shaft again, by rotating it back another notch. Wish me luck.

 

You're not gonna want to hear this, but I'm 99% sure you installed the clutch wrong. The GYTR has 2 friction plates that are a little bigger inside, and they have to be set up in the right order. Also you have to reuse the "spring" from the stock one. It's more like a large thin washer than a spring, but thats what they call it. The friction plates should be color coded, and there are 2 that are different. One of them should be the second friction plate you use and the other should be the last one against the pressure plate. The "spring" should go next to the second friction plate. My buddy did the same thing on his and we had to reorder the plates and all was well again. Hope this helps.

 

Yep! Sounds the same to me. The 2 plates are a little different size (smaller). Inspect them carefully and you will see 2 plates with smaller friction surfaces.If you have either one out of order the stack hight will be wrong and the pressure plate will always (rub) on the the outside plate if it has the smaller Inside diameter (bigger friction area) plate on it.

 

Okay, I gotcha. There were two plates that had green colored tabs on them. So those are out of order and the stack height is wrong. Finally. Thanks so much. I did reuse the cushion spring, and I'm pretty sure it was after the second friction plate.

I haven't ridden the bike, so I'm hoping that I don't have to reorder the springs. I doubt I will. But my worry is that I won't be able to see the color coding anymore. But the two plates are thinner, so will I be able to identify them that way?

Thanks guys, much appreciated.

 

Yes the (odd) ones look thinner on the friction surface. One goes with the cushion spring and the other goes on last. In this order. Fiber ,steel,small fiber,cushion spring,steel,fiber,steel etc...till you get to the last small one facing the pressure plate on the end.
Everything should be fine if you didnt ride it much. I can't see it hurting the springs at all.

 

Do the plates come in order out of the package?