i just rebuilt my raptor motor and had it bored out .50mm over and put a wiseco 11:1 in it along with a stage 1 hotcam. i am positive everthing is timed right and assembled right and the valves were readjusted. when i start the motor, i have a pretty loud tick in the motor, and cant figure out what it is. it runs strong and seems really smooth, but wanted to see if anyone was familiar with this. also, i was ridin at night for little break in and saw that the headers were red hot, for about 2 inches comin off the motor, is this normal, the paint is all worn off, from tryin to repaint the headers. thanks

 

I think the tick comes from the cam and valve train. My buddy had the same sound but he had the stage 2. My valves seem to tick when they need adjusting. As far as your headers glowing red they shouldnt do that, you're running a little lean. Try re-jetting. Is it glowing at idle or while you're on the throttle?

 

I just did almost the same setup but mine is bored .40over. Stage 1 Hotcam. Wiseco piston. My valves are noisy also. If you compare your cam card specs with the stock specs of the Raptor you'll see just how much difference there is in the valve adjustment. I will probably tighten mine up just a lil bit.
My pipe is very hot in the same spot as yours. (Right side sitting on bike coming off motor). I haven't had time to check the jetting by the plug. Probably lean though.

 

Slow down speed racer.

You are somewhat correct. Yes, the bigger the cam you put in , the more noise it will make.

As far as your headers go, YES, may be the correct answer. Notice i said "MAYBE".
It was never stated what brand of headers they are. Even stock headers may have a slight glow to them that you can see at night. After Market pipes may definitly glow as they are made from thinner materiels.

The other assumtion about being lean is based on what? The header glowing? Dont feel bad,Its a general misconception. Glowing headers can be caused by thin head pipe materiel, a lean condition, or even a rich condition. If theres Too much fuel and it cant all be burned in the cylinder, unburnt fuel will hit the inside of the head pipe and actually burn in the head pipe causing them to glow. Rare, but it happens.

Need more facts here to make a correct diagnosis.

 

I did the exact same mods as you did this past winter, a .50 over, wiseco 11:1 piston and a stage 1 hotcam. My valves just loosened up after putting an hour and a half on the motor and running a moto. You probably need to tighten them up if you haven't already. The cam and higher compression piston will increase the stress on the valves and cause them to loosen. This is typical, just like you have to adjust the valves within the first 10 hours of a new factory four stroke.

As for the header pipe glowing red, this is not normal. One of two things could be occurring here: you did some motor work, but neglected to do anything to reduce your motor's temps, or you are running lean. If you were running lean you would know it, the machine would be popping and backfiring on deceleration. If that's not the case, here are some things to consider to bring down your operating temps, as a pipe and motor work will make your engine run hotter.

1) Try running a different type of coolant to help reduce your temperatures – something like Engine Ice. Water wetter is an addative that doesn't really do anything. You will need to completely drain your coolant and replace it. You could also have a bad thermostat that is not opening when it should. One of your hoses could be leaking causing a loss in pressure. And you could possibly need to replace your water pump. I had to replace my pump last year, and my quad is an '02. It simply went bad.

2) Another easy and cheap solution that may help slightly: Run a deeper oil filter. This allows the engine to hold more oil, and will help decrease oil temps slightly. But the real solution to reducing oil temps is a larger capacity, aftermarket aluminum oil tank. You'll also want to double check what oil you are running. After trying several aftermarket brands, I settled on Yamalube's synthetic 20w40. This is a good oil for higher operating temperatures.

3) Consider an aftermarket radiator. These are a costly upgrade, but are by far the best solution. I have done all these things, and my raptor runs quite cool. I have had no problems with it overheating.

Again, you'll want to check your jetting. If in fact you are running lean this can lead to a glowing header pipe. If the pipe continues to glow red, put your hand on the side case of the clutch or starter side. If the sidecase is extremely hot to the touch, you're machine is running hotter than it should be. You need to carefully examine your cooling system at this point. You don't want to blow that new motor because it simply overheated. Good luck.

 

I also have a ticking noise that seems to get faster wih the rev, funny thing though, it runs stronger than it ever did, but that ticking is there.I am positive it is not coming from the cylinder, because the noise will stop, and then you can hear the piston stroking just fine. I am really concerned about this sound.

 

valves

 

Hmm...that seems like a logical problem, i thought it may have been from the magneto/stator, because the motor was running really strong, but thanks, i will relash the valves this weekend and if that fixes the problem ill owe you some advise!

 

Even with the proper lash they'll still be undeniably loud compared to stock. It's just something that comes with aftermarket cams, new springs or not.

 

this sound isnt from the cam chain slap from it being loose/ stretched , as far as rich goes on pipe, there are a lot of motors popped because of the jetting, lugging of the motor makes it hot because of the bog. i could be wrong though not lol