TTaylor,

I am not sure about all the aftermarket stuff you want, but I can tell you that if you can use a screwdriver you can take out and put back in the airfilter in under 5 minutes. Real easy.

 

The problem I found with the air filter on my Wolverine is that when putting it back in after cleaning, the lower edge of the intake to the carb catches on the foam gasket on the filter and can tear it. It happened with my stock foam filter and I had to get a new one. When I have to clean the filter now, before I put it back in I put a thin film of grease on the face of the gasket and use a thin putty knife to hold the gasket away from the hole until it seats in place in the airbox.

 

I'm probably going to end up getting a proflow adapter with a clamp on K&N. The Air box design on this machine is a bit odd. Heck, the filter and airbox set up on my 1985 three wheeler is a better design....clips hold down the lid, the filter is a clamp on. All you have to do is remove one screw to change the filter on the trike.

 

Yeah, I don't care much for the airbox design either. Sometimes it's hard to get the lid in place if dirt gets in the groove around the edge. I use a K&N filter, but with a pre-filter that I have to clean often, and I have to take the whole thing out to get the pre-filter off. That pro-flow kit just might be my next purchase.

 

Well, I took it apart and cleaned the filter last night. My filter was dry!!! I'm glad I didn't go riding anywhere with a dry foam filter. the filter looked a little rough too so I ordered a new twin air filter. I did use a thin film of grease on the end that is against the opening. When I was putting it back together I noticed that it is possible to not get the filter in correct leaving a gap for dirt and stuff to get in. I don't know how much the pro flow is but if it isnt too expensive it would be a good upgrade.

I also checked my bulbs last night. I can't figure out what the front bulb is but will take it in to an auto parts store and hopefully can cross the base with something. The tail light looks like it has the same base as an 1156 bulb but the bulbs is smaller than on the 1156. I think I'll try an 1156 bulb unless I can find a closer match. if anyone already knows what bulbs I can replace the front and rear with please let me know.

 

As far as a speedometer I installed a SCHWIN digital made for a bicycle. I can send pics if you are interested. I think I have about $15 into it. The only thing is I can not see it at night with out a light to shine on it. You might be able to get a lighted one but I wanted to stay inexpensive.

I guess you can install a fuel gauge from a kodiak into the top of the tank. Just buy one from your dealer and drill the hole. I have not done it yet, but plan to after some needed front bearings get purchased.

I absolutely would love to come up with a better airbox, I just do not have the time right now. I use a clamp on UNI filter and the base to my stock filter to clamp it to.

Good luck and enjoy, they are great machines!

 

Front headlamp is a Stanley brand from the factory, 12 volt 30/ 30 watt ( high/ low beam), I replaced mine with a set from PIAA, size H6M, draws only 35 watts( either high or low beam), but is as bright as a typical 60 watt. For a speedometer, I got a handlebar mount for my GPS, it runs off the external power and can be backlit for use at night. Plus, it keeps everyone else honest about thier machines[img]i/expressions/face-icon-small-wink.gif[/img]

 

thanks for the info on the headlight I had pulled mine out and taken it down to the local auto parts store and no luck. You are correct that it's a stanley 12V 30/30. The auto parts guys had never heard of a stanley. I'll try the PIAA because thats what I was trying to achieve was a brighter light with about the same wattage draw.

The tail light is an 89 but it can be swapped with an 1156 bulb. My local auto parts store carried both.

For the seedo I think I'll give the Trail Tech a try. It's only $75. I have seen some nice ones for around $150 but not sure if I want to spend that much. I have a GPS but wanted something to track the odometer/hours also.

 

On my Wolverine, I have installed a CCM bicycle speedometer. Like the speedometer on UGLY88 Wolverine, there is not back light. As for the air filter, I have installed a K&N air filter on a Noss Machine billet flange.

Yes, you can install a Kodiak gauge on a Wolverine. I haven’t done it on my Wolverine but I know a guy that did it. Here is what he said about the accuracy:

• Reads full at about 3/4 of tank.
• Reads half at exactly half tank.
• Reads about 1/4 at 1/4 tank.
• Reads empty with about 1 in left in tank....Plenty to get you home.

 

Cool, I think I'll try the fuel gauge setup. Thats about as accurate as my 04 sportsman with the electronic gauge. Except for the empty part. Once it started flashing you only had about 10 miles left to go.


On another note. I bled my front lines and they are still squichy at first but then after a couple of pumps tighten up a little. They are not as solid feeling as my sportsmans. I mean those only moved about a 1/8-1/4 of an inch before they were solid. Real easy for one finger to apply the brakes. I'm not sure if the difference is coming from the steel braided lines or if the master cylinder needs rebuilt on the wolverine. Are they generally squishy?