Hey guys i'm new to the forum mostly because i've reached my wits end with trying to fix my 1991 warrior. I can start it up and it'll idle fine...but if i try to rev it won't rev high at all...it just bogs and starts popping. I've done alot of searching trying ot fix this and i can't get it stop. I've tried unpluggin the parking brake cable and bypassing the check but nothing. I've cleaned the carb out 3 times and really made sure it was clean, checked allt he jetting settings in and put themt to spec with my manual. Everything mechanical/fuel related seems to be fine...next step has got to be electrical. Any input would be greatly appreciated.

 

Welcome !!

Its been a long time since I had a Warrior, but to keep your post from falling to the bottom, I'll try and give you some ideas.

Like you mentioned, the parking brake would be the first place to check. You might double check that, and unhook it all together at the clutch lever. (the elictrical part that is) Next thing would be the reverse lever. Make sure your wires there are all good and the switch is clean. Those are the easy and cheaper things to check. The next one would be the stator. I really don't know of a good way to check them other than replace it with one off a good running warrior of about the same year. There are differences in the wiring between some years.

Hope this helps!!
If not, at least its back to the top!! lol!!
Good luck!!

 

When I had my 2000 warrior it started running goofy one day so I went threw all the wiring and I found the wire going down to the reverse switch was broken under the rubber boot.I would also block off the parking brake.just my 2 cents

 

Thanks so far for the help guys!

 

Unplug the parking brake completely under the hood to make sure the switch isnt bad. Just unplugging it from the clutch perch might not fix it if problems is inside the switch.

Another common problem is a tear in the boot that connects the carb to the motor. These can get a small tear and not be noticeable but when you rev the motor it will open up and let air in. Take it off and give it a good inspection.
If thats the problem they are like $50 from a dealer.

Good luck

 

Yeah i have most of the platic off my bike right now and i did disconnect it there and it didn't make a change...as for the boot...originally it was torn and i replaced it so there's a new on there now....

 

im sure you already checked this, but is your air filter clean?

 

That i have....is there any way to test if the CDI box is bad or if the ignition coil is bad?

 

I don't know how similar the carb is from the warrior to the wolverine, but I have experienced similar symptoms when the rubber diaphram is comprimised, or the passages leading to it are blocked. It's located on the top of the carb and you can test its function by putting a shop vac (make sure the carb is completely drained first) on the motor side of the carb. The vacumn should cause the slide to rise. The warrior has a different carb so it may not have a diaphram, it which case this post was all a waste.lol... If it's not that then it's gotta be the parking brake circuit.

 

Try this for a check on the health of the spark to the spark plug:

Find an inductive type automotive timing light. It will have 12v (+) and 12 (-) leads plus a lead that will slide over the spark plug wire. The spark plug lead just fits over the outside of the wire, at a convenient place, and the voltage/current on the spark plug wire is sensed by the pickup and fires the timing light. I'm not sure, but Auto Zone may even have one in their Loan- a - Tool program.

I just tried this about a month ago and sure enough, the timing light would flash erratically, meaning that the spark plug wasn't getting a consistent fire from the electrical system. I started checking all my associated connections and sure enough, one of the spade connectors on the coil was loose enough to fall off.

The beauty of this method...it cuts your troubleshooting in half. If you feel good about the electrical, concentrate your efforts on the fuel side.