I am trying to install my winch, only part im stuck on is wiring to a live wire. I took my plastic off my gas tank and have clear vision of the only two wires that come out of my ignition, one is red. Is this the wire I want to cut, then splice ? Please let me know as soon as you can, thanks.

 

Here is a picture of the wire coming out of my ignition The wire

 

You can't really rely on color codes, you need a test probe or voltmeter. Touch the tester between that red wire and ground, if you have voltage when you turn the switch on, and when you turn the switch off the power cuts off then you have the right one.

 

I been trying that. Maybe I bought the wrong electrical tester. I bought this one I have only found volts on open wires/ open connections (battery and fuses under the seat) it does not read wires that are still coated. I dont want to just start cutting wires to check if its good or not.
Also, when I do eventually find this wire. ( I spent friggin hours today). What is the best way to ensure no moisture gets in and causes a short after I splice it ? Thanks for the reply recon.

 

You know in a case like this I would just use a simple light tester. If there is power the light comes on, if you are grounded well. In my experience that shrink tube works pretty well, and is nice and easy to use. Well good luck.

 

undo the plastic nut that holds the ignition swich on the bike and push it in and wiggle it around and look on the other side. Locate the wiring harness for your ignition, trace it back to the factory coupler and pull it apart( on my wolverine the two wires were red and brown). Take a test light and touch it to the ends of the wires. One will light up ( live feed from battery) the other won't ( return from ignition). Splice to the dead wire. All I used was the crimp on connector that came with the kit, it slipped over the feed wire and had an opening for the splice wire. You just squeeze the metal shim through and voila a new circuit, no cutting or taping. Even has a plastic flap that flips over protecting the shim from grounding or the connector from pulling open. I did lace it good with dielectric grease for some peace of mind, but I've never had a problem with these splices. Took about two hours to mount my winch, solenoid and all. Dont forget to put your ignition back together.Good luck.

 

Thanks fro the replies, I will buy the simple tester. I bought the venom winch (cheap) and it didnt come w/ any thing to crimp on connector, the wire I have to splice it is just a open wire. I will go to the hardware store and buy a bunch of different crimp on connectors and the simple light tester. Thanks

 

Thanks for all the help guys, I got it installed finally. Just got one more question, the postive and negative terminals on the winch are exposed to everything. Wont this cause a short? I'm not sure about other winches, but this winch doesnt include anything to cover it, even on venom's home page they show the two ends exposed. (on the right side looking at the ATV) is this ok to leave alone? I drive through streams all the time.

 

As long as you don't ground the positive terminal of the winch to the frame with anything metal (like the winch cable) it shouldn't short. If you're worried about it corroding and losing electrical conductivity just coat the exposed terminals / wiring with good old silicone- airtight, watertight, insulates and bonds to damn near anything. Now go get that thing stuck!
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Nope, not grounded to anythign odd, Just the solenoids that it came with then from there to the ground ont he battery. So I'm set, I will throw some silicone caulk on it though to make me 'sleep better'. My first test was 3 200+ lb people plus the 550lb bruin pulling up hill, it pulled us up the hill fine. So it seems to be workign decent. Thanks for all the help guys I really appreciate it. Now I have a little bit o knowledge to pass back to someone that doesnt know. All done. Thanks again. Off I go to find a mud pit [img]i/expressions/face-icon-small-smile.gif[/img]