Instead of starting a few threads, I'll keep this to one.

1) On my 2003, the front brake light switch was broken by the previous owner. Noting that the switch for the e-brake was the same, I swapped. It works, but only when you really really grab the brakes. I'm talking deathgrip. Is the switch for the front brake different from the others? Mine is broken, so I have nothing to compair it to.

2) Regarding the left lever that actuates the rear brake. THere's a switch there as well. What does that actuate? The pulling of that lever pulls down the rear brake pedal and that lights up the tail light.

3) What other Yamaha machines have the same parkingbrake setup? I'd like to have a parking brake for when I transport the machine. The previous owner removed the setup from the perch.

4) What size (diameter) hoses are used for the differential vents? Carb drain?

5) Is it possibve to adjust the valves without removing the fenders or gas tank?

Thanks in advance.

 

Anyone? Bueller? Buelller?

 

I'll answer what I can:
1.It must be different from the parking brake switch otherwise it would work. See if you can modify it???
2.I would say one is for the p-brake, and one is for the start in gear safety(must pull in left brake)
3.I know the Warrior and many other are the same but don't bother replacing the parts(they never work).For a parking brake leave it in gear(1st if it wants to roll forward and reverse if it wants to roll back. Always use tie-downs to hold your quad during transport.
4.Cut a little piece off and take it with you for sizing.
5.I think not. It would definatly be quicker to remove the fender and tank. Make SURE those lock nuts on the adjusters are tight.

 

The parking brake on my Wolverine has never worked very good, even from the dealer. I have spent a lot of time adjusting it before a ride, only to have to adjust it again afterwards, as if a cable keeps stretching or something. It just isn't dependable. Like wolverine68 said, leave it in gear.

I had to unbolt the fender and tank and move them a little to get to the valve covers, but I didn't have to take them completely off of the quad, it didn't take too long at all really. I have heard that you should replace the gaskets while you have the valve covers off, but someone else here might be able to confirm that.

 

Thanks guys! I have a Warrior perch, lever and brake holder on the way so I'll let everyone know how that goes.

Ah ha! That's what that is! That actuator will allow it to start in grear with the rear brake lever pulled.

Yeah, it's confusing as to why the actuator on the front brake side is different. If possible, could someone take a pic of their setup? A shot with the actuator in the lever assembly and one with it out? I really can't figure out why the one from the right side won't work. It's a bit confusing....but I guess getting a spare and filing/grinding down the metal a bit would work.

LOL! Now how come I didn't think of cutting a bit off and bringing it to the store?

Cool. I'll loosen everything up and see if moving things out of the way helps with the valves. I'm not sure when they were last done, so better safe than sorry.

 

It's been a few years since I had my Wolverine, but if I remember correctly I don't think the valve covers used gaskets at all. I think it had a large reusable O-ring that sat in a groove all the way around the edge.

 

One more!

Before the machine is warmed up, it takes a bit of effort to get to shift from first to second. I'll shift as normal, but it won't go into the next gear. Will adjusting the clutch solve this problem or is that a common issue with the Wolverine?

 

You're right, they are rubber O-rings, my mistake.

 

Instead of leaving the machine in gear, which can be hard on the transmission, I use a Velcro strap around the hadn brake to keep it from moving while in transit, I also use four straps durring transit as well.

 

Yes, you can adjust the valves of a Wolverine without removing the front fender. But you need to remove the gas tank. You will need to remove the bolts of the front fender near the gas tank and the bolts that hold the gas tank. After, you should be able to easily remove the gas tank.