I installed my kit from CT racing yesterday.
This is the pipe, header, and supertrapp exhuast with 16 discs. I modified the airbox for the proflow filter running the lid off.

I changed the main jets from 140, and 145 to
180, and 185. The air fuel screws are 3, and 4 turns out. I run premium unleaded, and stock gearing on my Raptor.

I ride at apprx. 2500 ft altitude. The temperature was about 75 degrees F this afternoon..

I timed my raptor stock, after breakin and valve adjustment to see what it would do in a 100 yard straight on a piece of abandoned asphalt.

The best I could do on asphalt was 7.0 seconds. This is after I dealt with some clutch problems, that I won't go into. Considering I am a novice rider who weighs in at 240 I felt pretty good about that time.

With the CT kit installed, I bested my previous time by about 3/4 second. I know this does not sound like a lot, but it is, and it doesn't even tell the true story.

I won't even try to compare to the 6.42 second 100 yard that dirtwheels posts in the December 2000 Dirtwheels, between the Raptor, DS650, and Honda 400, differant rider, track, machine, etc.

I rode for 2 hours this afternoon, sand, hills, small MX track, etc.

The guys at CT have their stuff straight on this kit. My raptor will hit the rev limiter now, where it would not before. The motor has considerable more power all the way up the rpm band. The bottom end is a little stronger than before. The same sandy corner on the track I ride will easily handle second now. Before it would not.

It now has a killer mid range. Gobs more torque.
It will now pull to the topend like a 5 valve 660cc motor should. Before, it acted kind of flat from the midrange up. All that is gone, in than some!

The sweet part about this system is the supertrapp is fairly quite. It is not much louder just putting around. When you get on the gas, I would say it is fairly load, nice throaty sound, no problem here.

I am a fair to midland mechanic. It took me 3.5 hours from start to finish, with basic tools.
The air box came out fairly easy, modified quickly with the proflow kit. The pipe came off easy.
I did not take the carbs off to change jets.
The carb bowls were not bad to take off, after I removed the starter. This is alot easier route than taking the carbs completly off, belive me.
The new pipe fit very nice, no problem here either.

With the airlid being left off, the crankcase breather hose is hanging out. I used a stock paper fuel filter, pushed it into the hose and hose clamped it in place. This will flow more than enough air to vent the crankcase, while keeping dirt out off the engine.

At the end off my ride I did some 3-5 gear hard kills to check the plug. It was burning a lit tan color. I think the jetting is about right. I plan on checking the plug after more riding tommorow.

Good luck!

All in all, I am very happy with this setup. Like some of you guys, I felt the raptor could do better, this did the trick for me.

 

Hey DesertRaptor! How did you determine that you could go up on the main jets so large? Everyone has been talking 150/155 jets with the full exhaust systems...180/185 is HUGE! I would like to know for sure, because I hate doing this job multiple times. How does it pull the big main jets? Did you raise your needles a notch? What pilots did you use? (is just adjusting the air screws with the stock pilots sufficient?) You are the first guy I've heard of who took the starter off to rejet,instead of removing the carbs...was this a difficult job? I have a full Yoshimura system coming next week, and I would like to know before hand which jets to install. Where did you get your pro-flow flange & filter? I was told that these were on backorder at this time. How much was it? Thanks in advance for your input on these questions, I appreciate the info you can give me. Sounds like your bike rocks. Hope you enjoy the mods.

 

scott
where did you get your full yoshimura titanium? I got mine from denton for $680 plus shipping. Anxiously awaiting it! and also tcs front shocks and a pro design filter set-up

 

Hi DSEater (I like your username!) I also got my Yoshi system from Denton. It's a damn lotta money for titanium, but I like the quality they are known for, and I LIKE the light weight. Let me know how you like your new TCS shocks...I am planning to get some different shocks also. Did you use standard length, and can you use these same length shocks if you put on extended a-arms? Where did you get your pro-flow setup? How much? Does it make a nice improvement? Maybe we can compare notes on the Yoshimura exhaust...I'd like to know what jet size you end up using. (some guys are using up to 180/185 size jets!) Any info you find out, please let me know.

 

Scott,

Allen, form CT racing
I called him about the 180,185 main jet size.
Allen assured me that was the best main jet size using his pipe system with the proflow, and no airbox lid. Allen told me I did not need to change the pilot jets, nor adjust the needles.
Just install it and go. I was curious if being 2000 feet higher than where the kit was dynoed would make it to rich, it did not!
Again, all I did to the carbs was change the main jets, and go out 1 more turn on the air/fuel screws.

It pulls hard from bottom to top. The starter removal takes 10 minutes, easy.
1. With the pipe off, you can see the two 10 mm bolts that hold the starter to its pad. This also holds a cable clamp down.

2. Remove the two bolts.

3. WARNING,Take a phillips and remove the hot cable lead off the top off the battery.

4. Remove the 10 mm nut ontop the starter and take
off the power cable.

5. Go around to the shifter side off the bike.
6. There is a cover on that side of the starter with four 8 mm bolts. Remove the bolts, and take the cover off.
You are now looking at the starter gear assembly.
7. From the rear brake side of the bike, reach in and pull the starter out. To reinstall, just reverse these directions.

Like I said, about 10 minutes.

Now you can take a short phillips and remove the floatbowl screws,(QTY 8), and do your jetting work.

You can do anything but the needle work from this position.

My proflow/adaptor came from CT racing with the pipe/jets. The whole kit came at $529.00 for everything. Like I said before, after warmup, and doing a hardkill pass. (Starting from a 3rd gear rolling start rev it out, shift and do the same for 4th, and 5th gear. When you wrap out 5th, gas still full open, hit the kill switch, coast to a
dead stop). Take your plug out, and check for color. This is the only good way I know of to check for lean/rich condition while tuning.

This is what I did to check mine, my plug was burning a light tan color, just right for pump gas.

WARNING
Since you plan on running the stock air filter, with lid on, your jets will be differant. I would say a good place to start would be 150,155 mains, and go from there. Keep on top the hardkill plug checks. A lean condition can kill a new motor pretty quick.

Your Yosh pipe should have some basic tuning tips.
After that I would call the Yosh techline.

Good luck....

 

I recently bought a Big Gun head pipe and GYT-R Silencer. Big Gun claims jetting should be 150,155 mains and 27.5 pilots. They are telling everyone this whether they are in California or Maine.

I know that jetting changes based on elevation and air density. It is not universal.

I have rejetted three times so far (145-150, 150-155,160-165). And I am still lean! I will have to buy even larger jets.

When I was talking with Big Gun they did say they have experimented with a modified airlid. They said they were up to 180 on the main before it dyno'ed with the same hp as stock. Ct's should be close based on what Big Gun said.

Blue Raptor
Renthal Bars
DuraBlue Axle+5
TBDesigns A-Arms+3 (still waiting)
TCS Shocks
Big Gun Head Pipe
GYTR Silencer
Sparks Ig. Key (still waiting)
Fastline Brake Lines
DG Front Bumper
ProDesign Switch
13/41 gearing