My 05 Kodiak 450 will not go in to 4x4. I don't use 4x very often, but when I needed it (badly) last week, it would not work. Luckily, I got a rope to my buddy to extract me without a serious mud bath.

Pushing the button, I do not get the clicking noise from the selinoid that I used to hear. I pulled the front cover and visually inspected the wiring - everything appears fine.

Can someone tell me what to check and how to check it? I am hoping it is not something really serious as we are going to deer camp in 3 weeks. I am really afraid the lead time on parts will require me to go 2x only.

 

I would guess that it could be the switch, the wires, the solenoid or the diff. I guess you could check to see if the solenoid is getting power from the wires when you put it in 4x4. Did you try different combinations like turning on 4x4 and then going slowly forward, then backward, goose it a little, putting it in different gears etc? Did you try locking the front at all? Did you try it any more after you got out of the mud?

 

Traildad - I tried every combo I could think of - every gears, rolling, backing, little gas, idle, neutral....and did it after we got back to camp and this last week end again after getting it all cleaned up.

I am pretty sure the solenoid is the culprit, as there is no clicking noise like it used to make before it engaged. What I don't know is how to check to make sure the solenoid is actually getting the signal from the wiring. I am hoping it is just a wiring issue and not a bad solenoid.

Thanks for the help

 

I got out my Haynes manual and took a look. They are $20 online and I recommend them. It says under "Electric 4WD system check
1.If the electrically selectable 4WD system used on later models doesn't work, check the main and 4WD fuses. Replace fuse(s) if necessary.
It goes on to talk about 4WD relay testing. I suggest you start with the fuses.
It also says The fuses are located in a fuse box or in individual holders under the seat near the battery.
It also says:
If the fuse blows be sure to check the wiring harnesses very carefully for evidence of a short circuit. Look for bare wires and chafed melted or burned insulation. If a fuse is replaced before the cause is located the new fuse will blow immediately. Never under any circumstances use a higher rated fuse or bridge the fuse terminals as damage to the electrical system or even a fire could result. Occasionally a fuse will blow or cause an open circuit for no obvious reason. Corrosion of the fuse ends and fuse holder terminals may occur and cause poor fuse contact. If this happens remove the corrosion with a wire brush or emery paper then spray the fuse end and terminals with electrical contact cleaner. Hope this helps.

 

Thanks for the assistance! I will get a manual ASAP. That is one of those things if I am not having trouble - why do I need it, then when I do need it, I don't have it...

 

Traildad,

Thanks for the assistance. I checked the fuses and they were good. Some other research basically said if the lockers got electricity, they were going to work, so I went back to the electrical system.

I had a "rat problem" where they had chewed up my wiring for my winch. Turns out they had also hit the locker wiring, it was just so buried in the maze of wire bundles that I had to strip the bike down to find it. The wires were chewed off even with the quick connector and down to the point where they were taped into a bundle with a bunch of other wires - so there were no obvious bare wires or chewed insulation.

I got it fixed by doing my normal "highly professional" wiring patch. I told my buddy, someday when a mechanic has to go in there, he is going to cuss me out, but it works - back in the 4x4 business.

Thanks again for taking the time to look that up for me. I have ordered a manual and some new carbon brake pads for the rear to see if I can stop the permanent squeak.

 

Hey davlandrum where did you order the manual from?

I would like to get a good manual for my '07 Kodiak 450

Any suggestions would be appreciated.

Thanks
headpressure

 

I will send you the info when I get to my home computer. Took me a while to find someone that had it in stock.

 

<div class="FTQUOTE"><begin quote>Originally posted by: davlandrum

Traildad,


Thanks again for taking the time to look that up for me. I have ordered a manual and some new carbon brake pads for the rear to see if I can stop the permanent squeak.</end quote></div>

Please let me know if the brake pads make any difference. I would like to fix that problem also. Ken

 

Will do. Seems like people have mixed success going with the carbon pads. It makes me so crazy I am seriously thinking of just taking the rear brake off completely.