banshee question
#11
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210s are choking your motor thats way to small unless you are bone stock. if you have Pipes and an aftermarket airfilter lid on/off or pods snorkel off depending on you elevation at or above sea level you should be running at least 280s-310s for mains 25-27.5 piolet and needel on the 3rd clip. There are to many variables to help you get you jetting setup properly. Awnser what mods you have and where you ride and I will be able to help you out more.
#12
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I agree....Depending on elevation, mods, etc, 310-320 mains with 25 (stock) to 32.5 pilot jets should get you running pretty smooth. What troubles me is your compression. 120 is on the low end. One thing you might consider is your stator. Has it been starting fine previously? If so, has it been just recent that it has been getting harder to kick start. Does it push start...and if so does it run fine when it does start. These could possibly be signs that your stator is going out. IF you are running stock everything then your carbs should be left alone aside from a good cleaning. If you do decide to clean them, reference exactly what you removed, ie; If yo remove your air screws, turn them all the way in before removing them counting how many turns it takes to bottom the screw out. Then remove it. If you have a twist throttle and have the idle screw mod follow the same steps with this also. When you reasemble...make sure you sinc. your carbs. This is very important so as to put equal response to both carbs simultaniously..I am curious to know what has been done to the motor as far as mods. Good luck
#14
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im in ny mods fmf fatty pipes pro design pro flow filter and stock carbs im not sure about the 210 mains i havent checked but it was running strong in the summer but it just wouldnt idle but i figured out the problem not too long ago and it was tors so i unplugged the brain and it idled only with choke out half way i think its to cold out thats why its acting up but i havent had time to take it for a spin and warm it up good
#16
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Rite, FMF Fattys call for a 27.5 piolet. Between you pulling the choke for it to idle good and the temp drops you must go up 2 sizes on the mains. For example if you are running 280 mains and 25 piolets switch to 300 mains and 27.5 piolets. You usualy dont have to mess with the piolet jet when going to aftermarket pipes and a pro flow kit FMF Pipes are the exception they like fatter piolets.
#17
#18
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<div class="FTQUOTE"><begin quote>Originally posted by: kawiking
the mains wont do anything for the idle ... thats pilot /air/fuel screw.... needle is mid range and main jet is pretty much half throttle and more. how do you like your noss head ?? im trying to sell my k@t head so i can buy a noss head.</end quote></div>
Correct, Piolet,needel,main. I am saying he probably still has 25s in there and FMF Pipes like 27.5s, then 1/12-2 turns on the air fuel screw, that TORS Unit has the big screw on both and thats for idle.
I love my Noss Head. Its seems to be the best cooling unit out of Pro Design, Trinity, ect... cause of how the collant flow passeges are cut in. Plus you dont need longer cyl screws and Noss and Pro Design domes are interchangable. Ive never had any expirence with a K@T head so I cant compare but if its only a matter of the Noss Head being 2-4% coller youde be best off keeping the head you have and saving up for an oversized rad which will give you a 15% at least cooling range. Plus Engine Ice for spring/summer then a 50/50 blend for the colder months cause Engine Ice has a freezing point of 33 degrese. Along those lines
the mains wont do anything for the idle ... thats pilot /air/fuel screw.... needle is mid range and main jet is pretty much half throttle and more. how do you like your noss head ?? im trying to sell my k@t head so i can buy a noss head.</end quote></div>
Correct, Piolet,needel,main. I am saying he probably still has 25s in there and FMF Pipes like 27.5s, then 1/12-2 turns on the air fuel screw, that TORS Unit has the big screw on both and thats for idle.
I love my Noss Head. Its seems to be the best cooling unit out of Pro Design, Trinity, ect... cause of how the collant flow passeges are cut in. Plus you dont need longer cyl screws and Noss and Pro Design domes are interchangable. Ive never had any expirence with a K@T head so I cant compare but if its only a matter of the Noss Head being 2-4% coller youde be best off keeping the head you have and saving up for an oversized rad which will give you a 15% at least cooling range. Plus Engine Ice for spring/summer then a 50/50 blend for the colder months cause Engine Ice has a freezing point of 33 degrese. Along those lines
#19
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i figured out what u were saying just letting him know. k&t heads run the pro design heads to, like you said you have to have exstended studs,which i have... i just dont want to change them out. i want to be to throw my stock shaved head on id i end up having a leak. thats why i want to go with the noss head. im glad to hear how much you like yours.