picked up a bear tracker cheap, with some issues. it was running away, popping, and had to keep the choke on, etc....took the carb off, cleaned it up, now its running much better. sort of. now is seems as though it is getting way too much air, or not enough fuel. i have the adjustment screw turned out more turns than i like to admit. messing around with things a bit i took the air filter out, and partially blocked the intake with duct tape, which in turn makes it run much better. missing a little punch off the line, but not totally bogging out. any ideas here? i dont claim to be the carb king, but this seems to be the most complex carb i have seen in a while.

 

welcome to the forums!! are the fuel lines in good condition?

 

fuel lines are in good shape. i am going to pull it apart again to look a little closer at the main jet, nozzle, and needle, since my issues seem to be with fuel delivery over 1/4 throttle.

 

We have an '01 Bear Tracker 250 with similar carb issues. The thing won't run unless the choke is pulled out just a touch - guess it could use a good cleaning. It has been left alone for a couple of months at a time without being run, but was always stored with a fuel aditive in the tank and run through the carb. Anyway, it recently developed a new problem. It started popping and stalled. Discovered the rubber intake tube (between the carb and the cast aluminum intake on the cylinder head) has become loose and there is a gap which allows air into the intake without going through the carb. There is only one clamp at the carb-to-rubber tube side and none at the rubber tube-to-intake side (where it came apart). The blow-up parts diagram from the dealership shows the same thing, so how is the rubber tube supposed to stay attached tightly at both ends with only one hose clamp at one end? They want me to buy a $40 replacement intake assembly that still has just one clamp at one end. The other end seems to just be relying merely on pressure againstthe carb to keep the flanged end of the rubber tube tight to the aluminum intake tube. The design doesn't seem to lend itself to the installation of any kind of clamp I know of. If you have a 250 Bear Tracker (around 2001), please look at yours and let me know if There is a clamp at both ends of the rubber tube between the carb and aluminum intake, or is there only one - like mine.
Thanks.

 

Sorry for the long message - here's a diagram from Yamaha that shows only one clamp on the rubber tube connected to the intake tube.

 

Hey guys, is there a way i'm missing to disengage the throttle cable in the carb itself? And how about the price on a new carb for the beartracker about $400, yikes. Thanks

 

Sorry, no I don't know the answer to that one. Had a TT-R 225 that needed some carb work and I got as far as removing the linkage from the top of the carb, gave up for fear of damaging or losing something and took the bike to the dealer. Don't mind tinkering as long as I feel I'm not going to mess something up that will cost me more than I was going to save by doing my own servicing.
Good luck.

 

Green,

Got the same problem. Mine came used with a generic hose clamp attempting to keep the hose connected to the engine. I went to pull out the choke after a few rides and the carb slipped out of position because the hose was not staying on the intake pipe on the engine. So, I tightened my generic hose clamp, and that worked great to hold things on until the hose got cut and broken by the clamp and then the carb just slipped out of position again after the next revving up of the rpms.

When you rev the engine, it moves about 1/4 inch forward away from the carb, so this hose needs to either flex or be long enough to stay on both the carb and and engine when the engine revs up. The clamp that is supposed to be there is the one holding the hose to the carb. This connection is tight and solid. The connection of the hose to the engine seems not so good to me, and obviously the previous owner wasn't happy with it either so they put the generic hose clamp on there.

I'm buying the $30 replacement hose and hope that it works better than what I have right now. If you or anyone else has a better idea, please chime in.

 

TGT1,
Thanks for the reply. Guess I'll have to replace the hose and aluminum intake pipe (sold as a unit) to fix the problem. If the new hose stays firm enough to stay in place as long as the original (8yrs), who could complain? Just seems as though it could have been a better design...one that would allow for a clamp on each end of the rubber hose.
Thanks again.

 

I was thinking about getting about a 2-3 inch long piece of automotive hose that is a larger diameter than either the intake or the carb's rubber hose and cutting a slit all the way along it. Then, I can wrap that section of hose around both the intake's pipe and the carb's hose. Finally, I can tie wrap my outer hose onto the intake's pipe.

That arrangement should keep the carb's hose in line with the carb so that when the engine revs and the carb tries to pull away from the intake it will at least stay in line and probably help keep it together. Also, it will keep the carb and it's hose from slipping out of place off of the intake pipe when I pull on the choke ****.

At any rate, I think my current hhose is shorter than the new part due to deterioration and being cut by the heat from the intake pipe. I hope the new one I'm getting this week will be longer and provide a more substantial fit. Surely the engineers didn't design it to be this crappy, so I just hope the new part makes sense and does the job.