Hey all,

Just picked up an 88 Terrapro with PTO, a Brush hog, a finish mower, and an 80% complete tiller. I have run into a few issues, hoping someone here can help. I believe people say this shares a lot of the same parts with the Moto 4 or maybe the prohauler? I downloaded the service manual, but with no ATV experience, its very difficult to make out the pictures. Any help is GREATLY appreciated

Anyway issues as follows:

1. Very difficult to shift to reverse. I can only get it to go once in a great while, not when I need it too. I fully depress the foot brake with all my weight, pull back on the lever, and it just doesnt go down far enough or click in 96% of the time. Randomly it will.

2. Differential not locking in place. I know where the differential lever is on the right hand side, turned to the rear should lock into place. I believe I know where this issue might be, but if anyone has a clear pic on a similar bike to compare, It would help very much

3. Wont run in high. Shifts fine, dies out. There are several scenarios this is "supposed" to happen. 1. with PTO engaged. 2. with differential locked 3. Towing implements. I guess I have to try to track down which it is electrically? Shortcut suggestions are helpful.

I can provide any pics upon request. Thanks a bunch!

 

So just as I was about to break down and take it into the shop (extreme budget issues prevented this) I decided to see what I could try to figure these things out at least partially. Maybe this thread will help another newbie at some point:

1. Forgive my poor nomenclature on this one. I figured the reverse issue had to be tied into the spring pulled cable coming off the rear brake pedal and going up. Traced it out and it was going to the shifter. Took some stuff apart to get at it, and sure enough, the "cylinder" that is at the end of the cable the retracts to allow for shifting was bent. I am guessing that it was getting caught on the lip of the housing preventing it from shifting. Unscrewed enough threads on it so it is out of the way for now until I get cash for a replacement.

2. I commented about the differential in another thread from way back. Same problem others had experienced, lever switch "pulled" out and had to be reset. Not too easy, but once you know what it is, pretty simple. Learning it if you have never seen it before is the hard part.

3. As suspected this was an electrical safety cut off. Inspecting the bike, I found that there was a switch broken near the two point hitch on the rear. Since it was broken anyway, I cut it off and used to spade connectors to short it together. Works great.

Almost all set, still have to remove the carb and have it cleaned, but man it feels good to have this much progress as a beginner!

 

So funny I also just got one. Only with the Bush hog attachment. Need to get bush hog wheels freed up little more. But seems only thing I've found wrong is the diff not locking up. Oh and rear brakes not work but have to add some fluid is bone dry. The clutch was not working in reverse like it wouldn't disengage. The clutch was pressed put it in reverse and it would start moving. Did some adjustments but seems it might be cause its been sitting for so long. Working little better now.

 

I know this is an old thread but to answer your question on the PTO. Sometimes the cable frays and will cause rough shifting. You can take the shift cable loose from the casing and try the lever to see if it moves freely. My guess it does. The problem is your shifter and cable. You probably need a new cable. I've seen PTO, clutch, throttle cables used for sell on ebay.

The speedometer has a magnetic reed switch which sends a signal to the CDI. This allows the CDI to prevent over revving of the engine. If that reed switch is bot working the CDI thinks the engine is sitting still and will indeed cut out at higher speeds. A reed switch can be tested along with speedometer rotation. An ohm meter between green/red and black when these wires are isolated will show an open and close as the cable rotates.

The differencial lock is located on the left side and looks like the same level as the choke by the ignition switch.

The implement safety switch will prevent the PTO engaging if nothing is hooked up. Pushing the governor throttle forward without and implement will kill the engine as well. BTW, I have a factory service manual.

It also sound like you have carb issues. The bottom end of the card houses the jets that normally get gummed up. I just rebuilt a Makuni carb with all new jets.

 

You will need to bleed the brakes. After adding fluid. This will show if you have any leaks in the sealed system. Possibly once you've added fluid, you may need to manually adjust the brakes forward to bring them within range.

The main wheel on the RC-42 is very similar to a wheel bearing hub. It breaks down the same way. One can overtighten the nut which will make it feel tight.

 

Think I have this thing good to go now it's been a beast. Thanks for your reply.

 

That's good to hear you have it running good.

 

Hello everyone i have one of these atvs and its the best atv out there if anyone needs any info on this atv email me

 

That's right Mike, I've thought about selling couple times but just hard to do so. I would maybe if someone came with the right price. Near future plan to sell once I can make the move for a side by side.

 

anyone know about the clutch on here