92 Blaster clutch dragging
Hi guys, I had to pull a Blaster apart and now I have it back together and the clutch will not disengage. I have followed the service manual on adjustment procedures and followed it precisely. The clutch springs are torqued to the right value, the ball bearing between shafts is there, the clutch arm is lined up to the case indicator, they are not new clutch plates, and I am running Amsoil in the trans case. Rather than taking the case apart all the time, I am leaving it off and trying to rotate it by hand to see if it will disengage, don't know if this is a good way to check it or not, but it is still dragging. Any other ideas?
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Originally Posted by brinkkl2000
(Post 3317944)
Hi guys, I had to pull a Blaster apart and now I have it back together and the clutch will not disengage. I have followed the service manual on adjustment procedures and followed it precisely. The clutch springs are torqued to the right value, the ball bearing between shafts is there, the clutch arm is lined up to the case indicator, they are not new clutch plates, and I am running Amsoil in the trans case. Rather than taking the case apart all the time, I am leaving it off and trying to rotate it by hand to see if it will disengage, don't know if this is a good way to check it or not, but it is still dragging. Any other ideas?
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Originally Posted by brinkkl2000
(Post 3317944)
they are not new clutch plates Any other ideas?
Yamaha Blaster 1988 2006 Clutch Kit Discs Plates Springs | eBay |
Thanks guys, I didn't think there would be a kit like that for that cheap, think I will go that route. No they were not soaked prior to installation. They aren't new, so I didn't think that would be necessary. How long should I soak the new ones for?
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Just oil plates up,don't soak them as they'll get soaked soon enough when installed and up and running. Plus check the sides of the clutch basket where the plates fit for any deep grooving over the years that cause plates to stick. That's where a little filing on the rough edges would help also. Just like this guy in the pic did. Doesn't have to be smooth as glass,just the rough edges. Too much and plates will chatter.
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Originally Posted by brinkkl2000
(Post 3317963)
Thanks guys, I didn't think there would be a kit like that for that cheap, think I will go that route. No they were not soaked prior to installation. They aren't new, so I didn't think that would be necessary. How long should I soak the new ones for?
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Originally Posted by Fasteratv
(Post 3317994)
both have almost new baskets and clutches, and cables are adjusted correctly, and both of them still drag a little until the oil has warmed a bit. :)
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I don't mean to hijack the mans thread but...specifically which Silkolene do you recommed for my two strokes ( so many choices :eek::D? The Belray gear saver performed the worst for me ( tho I know its good oil and I'm a Belray fan ). My son and I are currently using Yamalube four stroke oil, I think its 15W40, but both the YZ250 and the Banshee still drag a bit until the oil warms up for a few minutes.....especially the Bashhee. :D
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A lot of Ktm and Husqvarna 2 stroke riders chose this one for the gear boxes.http://www.motosport.com/silkolene-comp-gear-oil Doesn't show for atv use,but I'm sure you could. This one does.http://www.motorcycle-superstore.com...FQcLaQodzCsPpg Plus plenty of riders used this.http://www.motosport.com/product?psr...FYkCaQodcFYBNw
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Originally Posted by old polaris tech
(Post 3318046)
A lot of Ktm and Husqvarna 2 stroke riders chose this one for the gear boxes.Dirt Bike Silkolene Comp Gear Oil | MotoSport Doesn't show for atv use,but I'm sure you could. This one does.Silkolene Comp-Gear Oil - Motorcycle Superstore Plus plenty of riders used this.Dirt Bike Motul Transoil Expert Gearbox Oil | MotoSport
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