So this has me an my friend stumped. He got this kodiak an he ended up replacing a ton of parts on it. Stator, spark plug, cdi, voltage regulator, ignition coil, relays, an probably a few other things in forgetting. An yes, it did need it all, except maybe the relays.
After all that work though, it has no spark, we kept checking things, cleaning grounds an such, an nothing. Then 1 time it just randomly fired up, ran perfect, sounded great an didn’t die until my friend shut it down. After he put the plastics all back on, he went to start it, an no spark once again. We have stripped the wiring harness down an everything looks perfect. I imagine it has to be some type of safety switch, because once it started it ran fine. Would the neutral safety switch be bad, even though the neutral light is on? Is there a way to bypass all the safety measures to rule it out?

 

Best bet is to obtain the Factory Service Manual for that year Kodiak and start from the beginning on the troubleshooting no spark. You'll have to use a multimeter to check each and every item of the ignition system, but it's really the only way to find the culprit.

 

I got the service manual on it, went through everything it said, an the only thing that was out of spec was the pickup coil, where the resistance was about 150ohms higher than spec. But that dosnt make sense as far as why it would fire up an run perfectly fine until you shut it off.

 

Do you have another key switch to try ?

 

Might have one that will match up to it, i can give that a try if it does.

 

Took longer than i thought to find one, but key switch made no difference.

 

This is just a guess but at this point, if I was you I would be trying anything. I had an old Suzuki that was driving me crazy like this one is you. I heard that the epoxy that seals the cdi develops small cracks that you can't even see. Moisture gets in there and causes no spark and then it will work and then stop again. So someone said to put it in the oven at 350 degrees for 10 min., So that is what I did and it didn't hurt the cdi box but did deform the little soft plastic that sealed the connection but after letting it cool down I tried it and it WORKED to my surprise. I then resealed the whole surface with silicone and it was stable till I sold it last year.

 

That definitely sounds crazy, but at this point, crazy is about all we can do other than burn it down lol. CDI Box is brand new though, when he bought it it didn’t even have the cdi box. But like I said, we are out of practical ideas, so I’ll mention it to him an let him decide if he wants to give it a try.
Also, the service manual does not give a way to test the individual connections on the cdi box, it pretty much says after testing everything else, replace the cdi. Has anyone happen to figure out what connections to test on it?