Thankx Edd and Notu, I ordered the Dynojet Kit and a Filter I'm gonna get those installed and get the race fuel out of it and hopefully take care of the popping...Then after all is good I will experiment with the lid. I know I'm like a sponge but got any other mods to share?

 

Some things I wish I knew earlier:

Replace the upper plastic a-arm bushings with bronze ones - they are the same as those listed in the mags for the warrior. You only need four of them. If you wait too long then you will have to replace the sleeves too. The other alternative is a complete set of sleeves and bushings from Tom Miller Motorsports.

Grease your steering bushing often. Yamaha doesn't add enough lube and eventually the bushing wears into your steering stem thus never to be tight again even if you buy a new $23 bushing. A more rubbery bushing like the 400ex would have been better.

Locktight the lower steering stem bushing and retorque it. It will probably come loose at some point if you don't do this.

Replace 11 tooth front sprocket with a 13 tooth. You can easily pull factory gearing with your mods and proper jetting (unless you are into rock climbing and need a super low first gear). The smaller front sprocket binds the chain, robs power, and adds stress on the engine. Go to a 42 or 43 on the rear instead.

I am getting ready to try out a set of solid brass rear brakes. Hoping to get some added wear from them. I have an EBC rear rotor that is really hard so I am not worried about the brass wearing it down. Right now even when the EBC Severe Duty pads wear down to the metal, the rotor does not even get scratched. If the solid brass lasts even twice as long, I will be saving some big money on an annual basis. I've heard they last as much as four times as long. Plan to let everyone know how this works out.

Never buy DG swingarm skidplates - complete junk. I have one if anyone wants to weld it back together. I will sell it for the shipping charges.

Elka shocks are great but buy them in the US and not directly from Canada. Shipping and phone charges will eat you alive.

Drag racing and the wrong oil additives eat your clutch - use Yamaha recommended oil.

Always ride with two other people...one to stay with you and one to get help. Carry a cell phone and a few pain killers. I have a bottle carrier attached to the rear grab bar. Carry water to drink...it can be used to clean out cuts where gatorade, tea, soda, etc. don't work.

Always remember that everyone can hear you with those voice activated Chatterboxes especially when you are pissed about having to stop every 100 yards or so.

That is pretty much all I've learned.

/NotuRaptor

 

Notu, I've actually had the bike for a year, but have been avid rider for 15yrs.I keep a strict maint. program (as per fact service manual except oil & filter...changin' them every other ride). I have'nt had any problems up to this 'popping' thing. But I did mention my love for my Mobil 1 oil and man I got trashed for that post...but My R1 is fine with it, as was My ZX6R, and My 86 250R, and all my buddies bikes I service.I have an early vin 006144 and I have never had any trans probs.I ride it hard (with two 95 shee's) so you know I'm twisting it for all it's worth. As for the sprocket I'm going to take your advice and try the 13...I also have 12 I'd like to try cause I do climb some crazy hills (cause I can) as you can tell this is my first 4-stroke ATV and I love that torque!! As for the bushings ..they'll be on the way tommorow..Sounds like a plan to me, plastic bushings just don't seem like the trickest thing I've ever heard, but Yammy must have had the weight thing on their mind!!

 

the bushings sound like a good idea as do the brake pads,my wife uses mainly the rear brake and ill need to replace them soon.where can i get the bushings and the pads on line preferably..put a crank case filter on youre crank case breather hose that goes on the air box lid,id also check the front shock mounts and grease them reguarly.mine had very little grease and needed greasing almost immedietly.ive seen some raptors with the front shock bolts in backwards nut facing forward you always want the head of the bolt facing the elements and the threads protected.seems simple but get it coroded up and its hell to remove.

 

WOW!! How do you go through brakes so quick? Mine are still stock since 11/00..and are about 50% yet...I do alot of hill climbing, and trails.