Powershifting high-perf. atvs!!!!
#1
I always use my clucth when shifting up or down, but I've seen other people powershift up... without using the clucth. Is this harmful in anyway to the engine components? Your input is greatly appreciated.[img]i/expressions/face-icon-small-happy.gif[/img][img]i/expressions/face-icon-small-shocked.gif[/img][img]i/expressions/face-icon-small-wink.gif[/img][img]i/expressions/face-icon-small-cool.gif[/img]
#2
It is harsher on the tranny "for sure". At least if you don't let off the gas.
I used to shift this way on my old KX125, and it always worked like a dream. I tried doing the same on my shee...and understood it was too hard (had numerous light tranyy/shifter troubles), besides the fact that on a shee, gears are quite difficult to get in properly (even with the clutch in!). I would at least cut down on the throttle (does the same as if you were pulling the clutch in) when you don't clutch it...and keep the WFO shifting for drag races.
I used to shift this way on my old KX125, and it always worked like a dream. I tried doing the same on my shee...and understood it was too hard (had numerous light tranyy/shifter troubles), besides the fact that on a shee, gears are quite difficult to get in properly (even with the clutch in!). I would at least cut down on the throttle (does the same as if you were pulling the clutch in) when you don't clutch it...and keep the WFO shifting for drag races.
#6
If you hold the throttle wfo you will actually go faster by using the clutch. Just from my experience iam sure someone disagrees, but the reason it goes faster is from the rev the motor picks up while the clutch is in for a second.
#7
Thats how I do it. Hold the throttle WFO and grab a little clutch when shifting the gears. The idea is to keeep revs up, especially on a two stroke.
RoostKing...
RoostKing...
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#8
I agree with kentuckyhillbilly and roostking....the best way to keep RPM's up is to use the clutch while keeping the throttle nailed. The clutch is pulled in for a split second and rpm's go slightly up and the next gear is engaged....this helps the engine keep RPM's UP.
After shifting is perfected, you can focus on optomizing your dragging technique. We all know any atv is gonna be plain faster in a particular RPM zone. Pay close attention and you can "feel" this. This "sweet spot" while launching may not be the fastest way to get started, so experiment a little. While dragging, it's easy to get excited and "short-shift" or "overrev" your engine.....stay focused on what gets you from point a to b fastest and you may win a couple more races.
Also, after pulling out get towards the rear of the seat as fast as your machine will tolerate without the front end getting too high (I usually like about a 1'-1.5' of rise). You move back and more weight applies to the rear tires, which in turn raises the front end and allows even more weight from the machine on the tires. Done correctly, you get more hook-up and can pull a couple more atv lengths than normal just getting out of the hole! Be VERY CAUTIOUS though, in a split second you can wind up on your back.....guys that have perfected this technique are usually experienced riders! After launch, if the surface is smooth, keep your rear back on the seat to keep as much weight as possible on the rear tires. Later.
After shifting is perfected, you can focus on optomizing your dragging technique. We all know any atv is gonna be plain faster in a particular RPM zone. Pay close attention and you can "feel" this. This "sweet spot" while launching may not be the fastest way to get started, so experiment a little. While dragging, it's easy to get excited and "short-shift" or "overrev" your engine.....stay focused on what gets you from point a to b fastest and you may win a couple more races.
Also, after pulling out get towards the rear of the seat as fast as your machine will tolerate without the front end getting too high (I usually like about a 1'-1.5' of rise). You move back and more weight applies to the rear tires, which in turn raises the front end and allows even more weight from the machine on the tires. Done correctly, you get more hook-up and can pull a couple more atv lengths than normal just getting out of the hole! Be VERY CAUTIOUS though, in a split second you can wind up on your back.....guys that have perfected this technique are usually experienced riders! After launch, if the surface is smooth, keep your rear back on the seat to keep as much weight as possible on the rear tires. Later.
#9
I don't know if this applies, but I have learned how to shift through the gears just as fast as someone not using a clutch when I do(except on my bud's Shee) and now bikes that would usually beat me by a bike length or two usually lose. just sharin with ya.
#10
I agree woth ltracerx, using the clutch is slower than a perfect powershift (or whatever it's called -shifting without cutting out-). It takes a while to the cutch to reengage nicely...make that time count!!! But on the other side, on some machines, this is impossible to do (on the banshee, for example). The clutch feathering thing is slower (slightly...but every thousands counts!), but much safer (less chances of missing the next gear).
On the revvs up thing though...if you need the clutch to keep it on the pipe (since 4 strokes don't have any sort of power hit [img]i/expressions/face-icon-small-happy.gif[/img]), then you're shifting too early...Maybe it changes with terrain conditions but on all gravel/dirt roads I dragged, I was in the powerband all the time, with no clutch. Maybe in sand it's another story...
On the revvs up thing though...if you need the clutch to keep it on the pipe (since 4 strokes don't have any sort of power hit [img]i/expressions/face-icon-small-happy.gif[/img]), then you're shifting too early...Maybe it changes with terrain conditions but on all gravel/dirt roads I dragged, I was in the powerband all the time, with no clutch. Maybe in sand it's another story...


