I was just going through some 6+ month old topics, replies and posts and ran across this particular one. It reall sparked my interest and I know that alot of you folks can get something out of it. This comes from a well known engine builder that ALOT OF US have done business with, guess who?



Reading spark plug:
( I know this is long, but I hope you feel it was worth it )
PLUG READING
TO READ PLUGS PROPERLY YOU WILL NEED A 10x ILLUMINATED MAGNIFYING
GLASS
This is how it's done!!!
1. You set your heat range from the ground strap. ( this is the piece closest to the piston )
2. You do all the plug readings for jetting from the base ring ( the base ring is where the
ground strap is welded too )
3. You determine detonation and timing issues from the porcelain. The porcelain shows
preignition/detonation, it will not accurately determine jetting / air/fuel ratios.
DO NOT BASE JETTING DECISIONS ON THE PORCELAIN COLOR.

1. How to determining plug heat range:

The ground strap is your window to getting this right. If the "color" of the ground strap "changes"
too-close to the ground-strap's end, ( the end opposite of the base ring ), then the heat-range is
"too-cold" , ( heat transfer is to quick to the base ring ) If the "color" of the strap changes near
where it is welded to the base-ring, then it means that the plug heat-range is "too-hot", ( heat
transfer to the base ring is to slow causing the deposits to be burned off the strap completely )
The strap at this point could start working like a "glow-plug", probably resulting in
pre-ignition/and/or detonation. The Properly set heat-range is when the "color" is at the half-way
point on the strap.

2. Reading the base ring to determan jetting:

The base ring " color " is very close to the color of the piston crown and is used to determan the
jetting. Your looking for the soot color to be a nice light to medium brown, ( color is always hard
to discribe ) if the color doesn’t go all the way aroung the base ring or the color is whitish it is
way too lean. If the color goes all the way around, but there is a spoting of heavy dry soot on the
top of the color, you are too rich. ( TWO STROKE JETTING WILL BE A LITTLE WETTER
LOOKING AND DARKER THEN A FOUR STROKE )

3. Read the porcelain to determine detonation / preignition

The first signs of detonation / preignition will be seen on the porcelain down in the plug, It shows
up as tiny black or shinny specks of aluminum. Also Look very close around the center electrode
where the porcelain intersects this will appear to be melting between the insulator and the
electrode.
Detonation is caused by the air/fuel mixture exploding rather then burning. This gives off a sound,
( a knock ) this sound is the result of a shock wave, this wave disrupts the boundary layer of
cooler gasses that cover the internal parts of the combustion chamber. This causes a very rapid
rise in pressure and temperature. The results, holes in the top or sides of the pistons, blown head
gaskets, broken rods, ( all bad stuff ) This can also shock the rings from there seal causing oil to
form as little spots on the porcelain.





EXTREMELY GOOD INFO!!!
Care to guess who wrote this?


Later,
Swy

 

Oh, oh pick me mr. kotter!- I say it was Harry from Trinity that wrote that.

Do i win a prize????????

Harry is not scared to post in her from time to time. It would be nice if some other builders/companies would post more often. I think that the 770 thread, and the pipe shoot out did a few in. I have not seen a post in a long time from some of them.

 

No, thats the way it was written here in the forums a while back and its the way its written on the Trinity website as well. I'll trust Harrys words on this matter, and ever since I read his post way back when, thats what I use to read plugs.

 

OK, 14mins get's a BOZO button. I knew I made it way to easy when I said a well known engine builder that alot of us have done business with. Anyway, I just found it to be great info and have kept this on a word doc to have for later reference.


Air,
I'm sure other builders and such have different opinions and ech to his own. I am not saying one is wrong or right, I just felt that there are ALOT of people here on the forum that could learn something from this post. As we all see from postings on a daily basis, there are alot of atv enthusiasts that struggle to get correct jetting and this "I thought" could help these individuals.

And as REDSKIN said, I will trust the person who wrote this initially because my motor was built by his team.


Swy

 

When and after you do speak to him, please confirm your findings.

Regarding what I have said in the initial post, I did not change a thing. This was a copy and paste, so if it is stated wrong, then it was stated wrong by the initial writer.

 

I thought that, that jetting info was only good for his products???? And could damage anyone else's???? I'll go back on the site and see.

 

That is great information Swy. Thanks for sharing it with us all!

Now I have to pass it on to all my buds!

Toid.

 

LOL, yeah someone hasen't goten some lately. Dude I wasent bashing on trinity, I was asking a perfictly legit serious question. I could of swore when i was looking for kits it said in bold print, will not work for any product. And what I was really going for is someone to say yes or no if they saw that.

Now about you and the corndog guy, who the F#@$ is he and why do you keep insisting it's me?? And also about you trying to be a computer savvy talking about ip address's. Everyone who has half a brain knows that dial up or some dsl lines are dhcp aka for somepeople in lamo terms automatic ip addressing. So you can thing your all smart and try to ban me because you think im someone else and ill reboot my computer wait five minutes and connect to the internet again and be right back where I was.

Some of you guys need to just keep your mouths shut or read the messages better.

 

CT- why do you not have a profile???

 

Heh my bad I didn't have the profile and email visibility enabled. I have 21 posts, 22 now.