Grizzly 660 CV boot replacement - ATV Enthusiast Community

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Old 07-26-2002, 03:20 AM
Weekend Warrior
Thread Starter
Join Date: Apr 2002
Posts: 23

I have a hole in my left rear outer cv boot and I am going to be changing it this weekend. I am wondering if anyone else has had to do this and how hard was it? I was looking at the boot replacement kit from Yamaha and it looks like the bands are different from the original ones. They look like the ones that you just pull tight and bend back over and cut off the excess band. Does this sound right? Also, will I have to remove the complete axle assembly? Or will I be able to change the outer boot without having to remove the complete axle and inner boot? Any help would be greatly appreciated.
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Old 07-26-2002, 09:25 PM
Weekend Warrior
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Join Date: Apr 2002
Posts: 23

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Old 07-27-2002, 02:28 PM
Join Date: Nov 2001
Posts: 43

Did the exact same boot a couple weeks ago. Wasn't too hard, just make sure you have plenty of grease on hand because you have to take off both boots. And yes, the new bands are the ones you pull tight and bend over - I put a black zip-tie over that too just to make sure it didn't loosen up. You do have to remove the entire axle from the bike. There is a snap ring on the axle inside the rear diff that is holding the axle in. Just grab the axle and jerk - it will come out. Everything else is pretty easy to figure out.

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Old 07-27-2002, 08:54 PM
Pro Rider
Join Date: Jul 2001
Posts: 610

I've not read any replies, here's my prepackaged CV boot fix, it's for the front boot but the rear griz boot should be real close to the same to get to, the the bolts through the rear knuckles slide out.

To fix, remove the wheel, pull the rubber cup off(yami). Remove the cotterpin, aply ludicrous torque counterclockwise to the big jesus nut, I advise having a partner hold the brake tight so as not to put strain on the diff gears. Remove the big nut, remove the brake cailper, pull the hub/rotor. Remove the cotter pins on the ball joint bolts, the bottom bolts slide out(yami, honda's another taper), the top joint is taper fit, a small hammer to the knuckle seems to be all that's needed on the grizz to break that taper. Coerce the knuckle free of the halfshaft( turn the handlebars opposite of the removed wheel to give extra room.) Use a pry and tapping to get the halfshaft from the diff. Use a thin screwdriver to peel open the clamps on the boots(they are reusable a few times.) Slide the inside boot down the shaft, root the outer snap ring out of the grease, remove the inside hub, use snap ring pliers and remove the clip off the end of the halfshaft, slide the inboard bootup and grab the bearing in it-Keeps things cleaner- hahahha.

Slide the outboard boot free, soak it (the CV joint)in your favorite solvent, get the grease, mud, dirt out. Finnish with engine degreaser, flush it clean, pack with boat bearing grease, or any other good grease(read: something that's more than 79cents a tube) I use Mystic JT6, by the tub and have for 15 years or so, it's not let me down-ever even where I cheat on applications. Slide the outboard boot on, now for getting the right amount of air in the joint take a little practice, just put it on and try articulating it, if it pops loose or kinks try a little bit different position/air, replace the outboard clamps, don't forget the inboard small clamp, slide the inboard boot and bearing on, replace the snap ring, insert it in the inboard hub, install that snap ring, tighten all the boot clamps, check for full articulation. Clean the diff splines, graease the outer diff seal, insert the halfshaft, clean and grease the outboard splines, apply grease to the seals on the knuckle, install the knuckle and refasten the ball joints, install the outer hub/rotor, install the brake, have a partner hold the brake tight and install the jesus nut plenty tight, install the cotter pins, install the rubber cup, install the wheel, roll on...

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Old 07-26-2010, 06:59 PM
Weekend Warrior
Join Date: Sep 2009
Posts: 5

Hi All, I just wanted to say that Elrancho's instructions worked quite well...thank you for that post. I did have a bit of trouble getting the bearing all back together as the inner part that goes on to the shaft can only go all the way on one way but I of course tried the opposite way first. I also did not realize that the ball bearings just popped back into the outer part of the bearing assembly....kept trying to fit them in on the inside, hold them in there and get everything else lined back up and in....can you say round hole in a square peg boys and girls... Anyway, got it all done and will give it a go on a ride here in a couple of weeks.
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2002 , 660 , axle , boot , change , changing , cv , grizzly , installing , joint , outer , reomoving , replacement , replacing , yamaha

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