How do I change the oil in my Raptor?
#2
Well the first thing is find a hidden place where no one will see you spill all the oil out of the resivor tank. Other than that oil for me (4-R) is around $8 and you need 2 1/2 quarts for it. and the oil filter is like 15(I'm so getting ripped off I know). Then just read the owners manual to do it, I do it around every 20 hours. And I also service the rest of the stuff, Air filter, grease the a-arms and swingarm, lube the chain real good(I lube it every time I wash it to). Just basic stuff, it's all real easy. Have fun.
#4
right by your gearshifter there is a drain plug on the side of your engine..you might want to remove the plastic skid gaurd from under the engine so the oil can drain into a pan. the plug is in a bad spot.there is also a drain plug on the bottom of the oil tank.drain that also, grab a small pan like a tupperwear bowl or something to fit under the oil tank kinda a tight spot.remove the filter,put the new one on and refill.make sure you start your bike and let it get to operating temperature when checking oil so you don't overfill it.
#5
You only want to put 1 quart in the tank, replace the dipstick & start it up, rev it 4~5 times shut it down & then add the rest of the oil.
Don't overtighten the drain plug in the tank, it could cause it to crack.
Don't overtighten the drain plug in the tank, it could cause it to crack.
#6
I guess I will add to these other posts.
An easier way to get the oil out of the oil tank is to disconnect the line from the oil tank, right next to the drain plug. This is much easier then trying to catch the oil form under the tank itself and having be all over the place.
Also, don't waist your money on the Yamaha replacement oil filter. Save yourself some cash and buy the Bosch 3300 for a 1/3 of the Yamah price.
Most importantly, be sure to use a NON FRICTION MODIFIED OIL, no matter what! I use the YamaLube 20w 40 in the summer and 10w 40 when it cools down, but make sure it is the NON FRICTION MODIFIED oil.
An easier way to get the oil out of the oil tank is to disconnect the line from the oil tank, right next to the drain plug. This is much easier then trying to catch the oil form under the tank itself and having be all over the place.
Also, don't waist your money on the Yamaha replacement oil filter. Save yourself some cash and buy the Bosch 3300 for a 1/3 of the Yamah price.
Most importantly, be sure to use a NON FRICTION MODIFIED OIL, no matter what! I use the YamaLube 20w 40 in the summer and 10w 40 when it cools down, but make sure it is the NON FRICTION MODIFIED oil.
#7
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#9
someone needs to manufacture a RAPTOR funnell-that the top will sneak in under the oil tank, the tube is long enough to hit the fill hole in the top of the tank, and will fit nicely aganst the case drain plug.
ill pay $15 for the right funnell so i dont f*#k up my garage floor any more than it is already!
ill pay $15 for the right funnell so i dont f*#k up my garage floor any more than it is already!
#10
Dude, invest in the repair manual $54.00. You can get one here at Alba or your local dealer.
As for the oil tank. I take a piece of cardboard and bend it in a V shape and place it under the drain hole and run it out the side of the bike. No mess.
As for the engine drain bolt. With aftermarket skids at least GYTR there is a hole for the oil to drain through. I tilt the quad a little so the oil as it drains down does not run onto the skid or the frame at all. Once again no mess. Once in a while a tad will run onto the skid but a simple spray of de greaser and a wash cures that.
As for the oil tank. I take a piece of cardboard and bend it in a V shape and place it under the drain hole and run it out the side of the bike. No mess.
As for the engine drain bolt. With aftermarket skids at least GYTR there is a hole for the oil to drain through. I tilt the quad a little so the oil as it drains down does not run onto the skid or the frame at all. Once again no mess. Once in a while a tad will run onto the skid but a simple spray of de greaser and a wash cures that.


