i have heard that after 20 hours raptor valves start to tulip does any one know if this is true and if so would a valve job and some stffer springs fix this or should i get new valves/springs
and if i need new valves and springs what do you guys recomend

 

I have never heard of that. They do need periodic adjusments, but that isn't due to them being damaged.

When I had Trinity fix mine up they put some new ones in and sent my old ones back. I had over 20 hours on my machine and the old ones looked fine to me.

 

Yes, it has been known to happen. My stock valves and guides were toast after 6 months and I had them replaced with stainless valaves, new guides and stiffer springs. They needed to be replaced anyway and I was having my motor built up for the first time as well.

Again, I have said this in other posts and get ridiculed for it, but the stock springs are not stiff enough when using the stock cam. Throw a bigger cam in, like the Web 696 or Stage-1 Hotcam and these none believers will see for themselves in due time. This is just my opinion and I know others will disagree because the MFG's said it doesn't need them. Time will tell.

 

swytak
Who did you have to do your valves or did you do it your self if you did it ur self where did you get the stuff

 

yes the valves tulip where they meet the seat. mine did. just ask anybody who has alot of high rpm hours on there bike what the intake valves do when its time for adjustment, they will always be too tight. if you just keep re adjusting them you are going to run into problems after a long period of time

 

<< Yes, it has been known to happen. My stock valves and guides were toast after 6 months and I had them replaced with stainless valaves, new guides and stiffer springs. They needed to be replaced anyway and I was having my motor built up for the first time as well.

Again, I have said this in other posts and get ridiculed for it, but the stock springs are not stiff enough when using the stock cam. Throw a bigger cam in, like the Web 696 or Stage-1 Hotcam and these none believers will see for themselves in due time. This is just my opinion and I know others will disagree because the MFG's said it doesn't need them. Time will tell. >>



I 2nd this-This is a fact Jack!

 

Well I am going to get in on this, I never heard of this and have several other friends with Raptors and they have lots of High RPM mileage on their machines too. I just re adjust them and they are fine. I have adjusted them twice in the year and a half that I have owned mine. So I guess time will tell but when that time comes I will replace them with the Stage 1 Hotcam when its needed. I will have have to take mine apart and give it a thorough lookin into this winter.

Thanks for the advice.

 

<< swytak
Who did you have to do your valves or did you do it your self if you did it ur self where did you get the stuff >>



Because I was having the motor built anywho, I just had them do the valves as well. I actually went with a larger single single center intake on that particualr build. Trinity built my motor on that occassion and I had them build it again since.

I beleieve they were asking $10 a piece for the guides and $100 a peiece for the stainless valves. If you were to do it yourself, I'm confident you could save some cash, no doubt, but I was having them do a complete build and it made sense for me to just have them do it all.

 

Ha ha......I guess I wan't hard enough on the old girl!!!

Mine looked OK though.

 

let me throw a stupid question in here on you guys while i have no problem replacing valves jetting carbs etc etc this i don`t know i just took the airbox and intake off up to the carbs for instalation of a pro-flow kit and when i hit the gas(it was not running)the slides did not move in the carbs is this normal?? sorry for the dumb question but this is the first 4-stroke i have owned and i`m used to seeing the slides move on the two strokes